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UCSB LIBRARY 



THE 

ITALIAN 
COOK BOOK 

The Art of Eating Well 



PRACTICAL RECIPES 

OF THE 

ITALIAN CUISINE 




COMPILED BY 

MRS. MARIA GENTILE 



ITALIAN BOOK CO. 

NEW YORK 



COPYRIGHT 1919 

BY 
ITALIAN BOOK CO. 



PREFACE 

One of the beneficial results of the Great War 
has been the teaching of thrift to the American 
housewife. For patriotic reasons and for reasons 
of economy, more attention has been bestowed 
upon the preparing and cooking of food that is 
to be at once palatable, nourishing and econo- 
mical. 

In the Italian cuisine we find in the highest 
degree these three qualities. That it is palatable, 
all those who have partaken of food in an Italian 
trattoria or at the home of an Italian family can 
testify, that it is healthy the splendid manhood 
and womanhood of Italy is a proof more than 
sufficient. And who could deny, knowing the 
thriftiness of the Italian race, that it is economi- 
cal? 

It has therefore been thought that a book of 
PRACTICAL RECIPES OF THE ITALIAN 
CUISINE could be offered to the American public 
with hope of success. It is not a pretentious book, 
and the recipes have been made as clear and sim- 
ple as possible. Some of the dishes described are 
not peculiar to Italy. All, however, are representa- 
tive of the Cucina Casalinga of the peninsular 
Kingdom, which is not the least product of a lov- 
able and simple people, among whom the art of 
living well and getting the most out of life at 
a moderate expense has been attained to a very 
high degree. 



1 

BROTH OR SOUP STOCK 
(Brodo) 

To obtain good broth the meat must be put in 
cold water, and then allowed to boil slow- 
ly. Add to the meat some pieces of bones and 
"soup greens" as, for instance, celery, carrots 
and parsley. To give a brown color to the broth, 
some sugar, first browned at the fire, then diluted 
in cold water, may be added. 

While it is not considered that the broth has 
much nutritive power, it is excellent to promote 
the digestion. Nearly all the Italian soups are 
made on a basis of broth. 

A good recipe for substantial broth to be used 
for invalids is the following: Cut some beef in 
thin slices and place them in a large saucepan; 
add some salt. Pour cold water upon them, so 
that they are entirely covered. Cover the sauce- 
pan so that it is hermetically closed and place 
on the cover a receptacle containing water, which 
must be constantly renewed. Keep on a low fire 
for six hours, then on a strong fire for ten min- 
utes. Strain the liquid in cheese cloth. 



The soup stock, besides being used for soups, 
is a necessary ingredient in hundreds of Italian 
dishes. 



SOUP OF "CAPPELLETTI" 

This Soup is called of "Cappelletti" or "little 
hats" on account of the shape of the "Cappellet- 
ti." 

First a thin sheet of paste is made according to 
the following directions: 

The best and most tender paste is made simply 
of eggs, flour and salt, water may be substituted 
for part of the eggs, for economy, or when a less 
rich paste is needed. Allow about a cup of 
flour to an egg. Put the flour on a bread board, 
make a hollow in the middle and break in the egg. 
Use any extra whites that are on hand. Knead 
it thoroughly, adding more flour if necessary, 
until you have a paste you can roll out. Roll it 
as thin as an eighth of an inch. A long rolling 
pin is necessary, but any stick, well scrubbed and 
sand papered, will serve in lieu of the long Italian 
rolling pin. 

Cut from this sheet of paste rounds measuring 
about three inches in diameter. In the middle of 
each circle place a spoonful of filling that must 
be made beforehand, composed of cooked meat 
(chicken, pork or veal) ground very fine and 
seasoned with grated cheese, grated lemon peel, 



nutmeg, allspice, salt. The ground meat is to 
be mixed with an equal amount of curds or cot- 
tage cheese. 

When the filling is placed in the circle of paste, 
fold the latter over and moisten the edge of the 
paste with the finger dipped in water to make it 
stay securely closed. 

These cappelletti should be cooked in chicken 
or beef broth until the paste is tender, and served 
with this broth as a soup. 



BREAD SOUP 

(Panata) 

This excellent and nutritious soup is a godsend 
for using the stale bread that must never again 
be thrown away. It is composed of bread crumbs 
and grated bread, eggs, grated cheese, nutmeg 
(in very small quantity) and salt, all mixed to- 
gether and put in broth previously prepared, 
which must be warm at the moment of the im- 
mersion, but not at the boiling point. Then place 
it on a low fire and stir gently. Any vegetable 
left over may be added. 

4 

GNOCCHI 

This is an excellent soup, but as it requires 
boiled or roast breast of chicken or turkey it is 

7 



well to make it only \vhen these ingredients are 
handy. 

Prepare a certain quantity of boiled potatoes, 
the mealy kind being preferred. Mash the 
potatoes and mix them with chicken or tur- 
key breast well ground, grated cheese (Parme- 
san or Swiss), two or more yolks of eggs, salt 
and a small quantity of nutmeg. Pour the com- 
pound on the bread board with a quantity of flour 
sufficient to make a paste and roll it in little sticks 
as thick as the small finger. Cut the sticks in lit- 
tle pieces about half an inch long and put them 
in boiling water. Five or six minutes' cooking 
will be sufficient. 

5 
VEGETABLE SOUP 

(Zuppa Sante) 

Any kind of vegetables may be used for this 
soup: carrots, celery, cabbage, turnips, onions, 
potatoes, spinach, the outside leaves of lettuce 
or greens of any variety. 

Select three or four kind of vegetables, shred or 
chop coarsely cabbage or greens, and slice or cut 
in cubes the root vegetables. Put them over the 
fire with a small quantity of cooking oil or butter 
substitute, and let them fry until they have ab- 
sorbed the fat. Then add broth and cook until 
the vegetables are very tender. Fry croutons of 
stale bread in oil and serve them in the soup. 

8 



o 

QUEEN'S SOUP 
(Zuppa Regina) 

This is made with the white meat of chicken, 
which is to be ground in a meat grinder together 
with blanched almonds (5 or 6) for one quart 
of chicken, stock. To the meat and almond add 
some bread crumbs, first soaked in milk or broth, 
in the proportion of about one fifth of the quan- 
tity of the meat. All these ingredients are to be 
rubbed to a very smooth paste and hot broth is 
to be added to them. If you wish the soup to be 
richer and have a more milky consistency, use 
the yolk of an egg, which should be beaten, and 
have a few tablespoonfuls of hot broth stirred into 
it before adding to the soup. Do not let the soup 
boil after the egg is added or it will curdle. 

One slice of stale bread may be cut into cubes, 
fried in deep fat, and the croutons put in the soup. 
Send it to the table with a dish of grated cheese. 

7 
BEAN SOUP 

(Zuppa di fagiuoli) 

One cup of dried beans, kidney, navy or lima 
is to be soaked over night. Then boil until ten- 
der. It is preferable to put the beans to cook in 
cold water with a pinch of soda. When they come 
to boil, pour off this water and add fresh. 

9 



Chop fine !/i onion, one clove of garlic, one 
sprig of parsley and one piece of celery and put 
them to fry in j/ CU P of oil with salt and a gene- 
rous amount of pepper. When the vegetables are 
a delicate brown add to them two cups of the 
broth from the beans and 1 cup of tomatoes (can- 
ned or fresh). Let all come to a boil and pour 
the mixture into the kettle of beans from which 
some of the water has been drained, if they are 
very liquid. This soup may be served as it is or 
rubbed through a sieve before serving. Croutons 
or triangles of dry toast make an excellent addi- 
tion. 

The bean soup is made without meat or chi- 
cken broth, and it belongs consequently to that 
class of soup called by the Italians "Minestra di 
Magro" or "lean soup, to be served preferably 
on Friday and other days in which the Roman 
Catholic Church prohibits the use of meats. 

8 

LENTIL SOUP 
(Zuppa di lenticchie) 

The lentil soup is prepared in the same way 
as the bean soup, only substituting lentils for 
beans. A good combination is that of lentils and 
rice. The nutritive qualities of the lentils are not 
sufficiently known in this country, but all books 
on dietetics speak very highly of them. 

10 



9 
VEGETABLE CHOWDER 

(Minestrone alia Milanese) 

Cut off the rind of ]/i Ib. salt pork and put it 
into two quarts of water to boil. Cut off a small 
slice of the pork and beat it to a paste with two 
or three sprigs of parsley, a little celery and one 
kernel of garlic. Add this paste to the pork and 
water. Slice two carrots, cut the rib out of the 
leaves of Y^ medium sized cabbage. Add the 
carrots, cabbage leaves, other vegetables, season- 
ing and butter to the soup, and let it boil slowly 
for 2 ]/2 hours. The last j/2 hour add one small 
handful of rice for each person. 

When the pork is very soft, remove and slice 
in little ribbons and put it back. 

The minestrone is equally good eaten cold. 

10 
RAVIOLI 

Put on the bread board about two pounds of 
flour in a heap ; make a hollow in the middle and 
put in it a piece of butter, three egg-yolks, 
salt and three or four tablespoonf uls of lukewarm 
water. Make a paste and knead it well, then let 
it stand for an hour, wrapped or covered with a 
linen cloth. Then spread the paste to a thin sheet, 
as thin as a ten-cent piece, 

11 



Chop and grind pieces of roast or boiled chi- 
cken meat: add to it an equal part of marrow 
from the bones of beef and pieces of brains, three 
yolks, some crumbs of bread soaked in milk or 
broth and some grated cheese (Parmesan or 
Swiss). Rub through a sieve and make little balls 
as big as a hazel-nut, which are to be placed at 
equal distances (a little more than an inch) in 
a line over the sheet of paste. 

Beat a whole egg and pass it over the paste 
with a brush all around the little balls. Cover 
these with another sheet of paste, press down the 
intervals between each ball, and then separate 
each section from the other with a knife. Moisten 
the edges of each section with the finger dipped 
in cold water, to make them stick together, and 
press them down with the fingers or the prongs of 
a fork. Then put to boil in water seasoned with 
salt or, better still, in broth. The ravioli are 
then to be served hot seasoned with cheese and 
butter or with brown stock or tomato sauce. 

11 

PAVESE SOUP 
(Zuppa alia Pavese) 

Cut as many thin slices of bread as are needed 
in order that each person may have at least two 
of them. These slices are then to be toasted and 
browned with butter. Poach two eggs for each 

12 



person, one on each slice of bread and place the 
slices on a large and deep dish (not in a soup 
tureen). Pour hot broth in the plate, taking care 
not to break the eggs, season with Parmesan or 
Swiss cheese, and serve. 

PASTE 

SPAGHETTI, MACARONI ETC. 
(Pasta Asciutta) 

The Italians serve the spaghetti or macaroni 
at the beginning of the meal, in place of soup, and 
they give it the name of Minestra Asciutta or 
"dry" soup. Besides the familiar spaghetti, the 
paste is served in many other forms and with 
different seasoning. This is by far the most 
popular Italian dish, and it seems to have pleas- 
ed the taste of all the peoples of the earth. 
The highly nutritive qualities of spaghetti and of 
cheese, their indispensable condiment, have been 
recognized by all diet authorities and, as for its 
palatableness, the lovers of spaghetti are just as 
enthusiastic and numerous outside of Italy as 
within the boundaries of that blessed country. 
The most popular seasoning for spaghetti, are 
tomato sauce, brown stock and anchovy sauce. 
The description of these three condiments fol- 
lows: 



13 



12 
TOMATO SAUCE 

(Salsa di Pomidoro) 

Chop together, fine, one quarter of an onion, a 
clove of garlic, a piece of celery as long as your 
finger, a few bay leaves and just enough parsley. 
Season with a little oil, salt and pepper, cut up 
seven or eight tomatoes and put everything over 
the fire together. Stir it from time to time and 
when you see the juice condensing into a thin 
custard strain through a sieve, and it is ready 
for use. 

When fresh tomatoes are not available the 
tomato paste may be used. This is a concentra- 
ted paste made from tomatoes and spices which 
is to be had, at all Italian grocers', now 
so numerous in all American cities. Thinned 
with water, it is a much used ingredient in Italian 
recipes. Catsup and concentrated tomato soup 
do not make satisfactory substitutes as they are 
too sweet in flavor. Of course canned tomatoes 
seasoned with salt and a bit of bay leaf, can al- 
ways be used instead of fresh tomatoes. 

This sauce serves many purposes. It is good 
on boiled meat; excellent to dress macaroni, spa- 
ghetti or other pastes which have been seasoned 
with butter and cheese, or on boiled rice seasoned 
in the same way (see Risotto). Mushrooms are 
a fine addition to it. 

14 



When using concentrated paste the following 
recipes will be found to give good results : 

Chop one onion, one carrot and a celery stalk: 
form a little bunch of parsley and other aromatic 
greens and put everything to brown in a saucepan 
together with a piece of butter. Add a reason- 
able portion of tomato paste while cooking, stir 
and keep on a low fire until the sauce assumes 
the necessary consistency. 

13 
BROWN STOCK 

(Sugo di Came) 

Cover the bottom of a saucepan with thin slices 
of beef taken from a juicy cut and small pieces 
of salt pork. Place over a large onion, one car- 
rot, and a stalk of celery, all chopped in small 
pieces. Add some butter and cover the whole 
with any trimmings from steaks or roasts and 
any bit of left over cooked meat. Season with 
salt and cloves. Put over the fire without stirr- 
ing. When you smell the onions getting very 
brown, turn the meat and when everything is 
quite brown add a cup of water, renewing the 
latter three times. Finally add a certain quan- 
tity of boiling water or, better still, of broth, and 
let it boil gently five or six hours. Strain, cool 
and skim off the fat which will form a cake on 
top of the liquid. 

15 



The meat can be used afterward for meat balls 
or Croquettes. The stock may be kept for some 
days and forms the basis for many dishes. 

14 
ANCHOVY SAUCE 

(Salsa d'Acciughe) 

This recipe does not call for the filets of an- 
chovies prepared for hors d'ceuvre, but the less 
expensive and larger whole anchovies in salt to 
be had in bulk or cans at large dealers. Wash 
them thoroughly in plenty of water. Remove 
head, toil, backbone and skin and they are ready 
for use. 

Put five or six anchovies into a colander and 
dip quickly into boiling water to loosen the skins, 
remove the salt, skin and bone them. Chop 
them and put over the fire in a saucepan with a 
generous quantity of oil and some pepper. Do 
not let them boil, but when they are hot add two 
tablespoons of butter and three or four table- 
spoons of concentrated tomato juice made by 
cooking down canned tomatoes and rubbing 
through a sieve. When this sauce is used to season 
spaghetti, these must be boiled in water that is 
only slightly salted and care must be taken not to 
let them become too soft. The quantities above 
mentioned ought to be sufficient for about one 
pound of spaghetti. 

16 



15 

SPAGHETTI OR MACARONI WITH 

BUTTER AND CHEESE 

(Pasta al burro e formaggio) 

This is the simplest form in which the spaghetti 
may be served, and it is generally reserved for 
the thickest paste. The spaghetti are to be boiled 
until tender in salted water, taking care to remove 
them when tender, and not cooked until they lose 
form. They should not be put into the water 
until this is at a boiling point. 

Take as much macaroni as will half fill the 
dish in which it is to be served. Break into pieces 
two and a half to three inches long if you so de- 
sire. The Italians leave them unbroken, but their 
skill in turning them around the fork and eating 
them is not the privilege of everybody. Put the 
macaroni into salted boiling water, and boil 
twelve to fifteen minutes, or until the macaroni 
is perfectly soft. Stir frequently to prevent the 
macaroni from adhering to the bottom. Turn 
it into a colander to drain; then put it into a 
pudding-dish with a generous quantity of butter 
and grated cheese. If more cheese is liked, it 
can be brought to the table so that the guests can 
help themselves to it. 

The macaroni called "Mezzani" which is a 
name designating size, not quality, is the prefer- 
able kind for macaroni dishes made with butter 
and cheese. 

17 



16 

MACARONI WITH SAUCE 
(Maccheroni al sugo) 

The most appreciated kind of macaroni are 
those seasoned with tomato sauce or with brown 
stock (see nos. 12 and 13). The macaroni are 
boiled as above, then drained in a colander, re- 
turned to the saucepan and mixed with the sauce 
and grated cheese. For those who like it some 
butter may be added in the mixing. 

17 

MACARONI WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE 
(Maccheroni con salsa d'acciughe) 

After the paste is drained thoroughly it is to 
be put into the hot dish in which it is to be ser- 
ved and the anchovy sauce poured over it and 
well mixed with two silver forks until the sauce 
has gone all through it. Some olive oil may be 
added, but grated cheese is not generally used 
with the anchovy sauce. 

18 
MACARONI A LA CORINNA 

(Maccheroni alia Corinna) 

Put on the fire a pot with two quarts of salted 
water to which add a small piece of butter. When 
it begins to boil put in it 24 Ib. macaroni. Let 

18 



it boil for five minutes, then drain them in a co- 
lander. Put them again in new boiling water, 
prepared as above and let them cook on a slow 
fire. Drain them again. Cover the bottom of 
a plate with macaroni and cover this first layer 
with grated cheese and with some vegetables in 
macedoine, that is, chopped fine and fried brown 
with butter. Repeat the draining, moisten the 
macaroni with the water in which they have pre- 
viously cooked and keep on a low fire for ten 
minutes more. 

The Macedoine of vegetables can be made 
with a dozen Bruxelles sprouts or one cabbage, 
half a dozen big asparagus cut in little pieces, a 
carrot cut in thin slices, a dozen small onions, 
some turnips and half a dozen mushrooms. The 
mushrooms and the asparagus can be omitted. 
Melt some butter in a saucepan and when the 
turnips, the carrots and the onions are half cook- 
ed, add the cabbage or sprouts. Put in some water 
and some more butter, boil for ten minutes and 
then add the mushrooms and the asparagus, add- 
ing salt and pepper, and a little sugar if this is 
desired. 

19 

MACARONI "AU GRATIN" 
(Maccheroni al gratin) 

Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender 
and drain them. Butter slightly a fireproof casse- 

19 



role and lay on the bottom some grated cheese 
and grated bread. Alternate the layers of cheese 
with macaroni and on the top layer of macaroni 
put more cheese and bread grated. Over the 
whole pour some melted butter, cover the casse- 
role, (or pyrex plate) and put it in the oven with 
a low fire. Keep for ten minutes or more, until 
the top appears browned. 

20 
MACARONI NAPOLITAINE 

(Maccheroni alia Napoletana) 

Grind '/4 lb. salt pork or bacon and fry it out 
in a saucepan. While it is frying put one small 
onion through the grinder. As soon as the pork 
begins to brown add the onion, the parsley chop- 
ped, a clove (or small section) of garlic shred- 
ded fine, and a few dried mushrooms which have 
been softened by soaking in warm water. When 
the vegetables are very brown (great care must 
be taken not to burn the onion, which scorches 
very easily) add ]/2 Mb. round steak ground 
coarsely or cut up in little cubes. When the meat 
is a good brown color, add some fresh or canned 
tomatoes or half a tablespoonful of tomato paste 
and simmer slowly until all has cooked down to 
a thick creamy sauce. It will probably take 24 
hour. The sauce may be bound together with a 
little flour if it shows a tendency to separate. 

20 



This sauce is used to dress all kinds of maca- 
roni and spaghetti, also for boiled rice (see Ri- 
sotto). The macaroni or spaghetti should be 
left unbroken when cooked. If they are too long 
to fit in the kettle immerse one end in the boiling 
salted water and in a very few minutes the ends 
of the spaghetti under the water will become soft- 
ened so that the rest can be pushed down into the 
kettle. Be careful not to overcook it, and it will 
not be pasty, but firm and tender. Drain it care- 
fully and put in a hot soup tureen. Sprinkle a 
handful of grated cheese over it and pour on the 
sauce. Lift with two forks until thoroughly 
mixed. 

21 
MACARONI FRIED WITH OIL 

(Maccheroni all' olio) 

After the macaroni have boiled drain them and 
put them in a saucepan in which some good olive 
oil has already boiled, with a clove of garlic chop- 
ped fine. Let the paste fry, taking care that it 
doesn't stick to the bottom of the saucepan, and 
when it is well browned on one side, turn it 
to have the other side browned. Serve the ma- 
caroni very hot. Add no cheese. 



21 



. 22 

RISOTTO MILANAISE 
(Risotto alia Milanese) 

Melt a small piece of butter in a saucepan. 
Brown in the butter a medium sized onion, cut 
in thin slices. When the onion is browned, take 
it away from the saucepan and add little by little 
the rice, stirring it with a wooden spoon. Every 
time that the rice becomes dry, add some hot broth 
(or hot water) until the rice is completely cook- 
ed. Add salt and pepper and a little saffron, if 
you like it. 

When the rice is almost cooked, add to it some 
brown stock. Dress with parmesan cheese and 
some butter. Mix well and serve hot. This dish 
must not be allowed to be overcooked or cooled 
before eating. 

23 

RISOTTO WITH CHICKEN GIBLETS 
(Risotto alia Milanese II) 

The broth for this risotto may be made by 
cooking together the giblets, neck and tips of 
wings of a chicken which is to be roasted, or it 
may be made from the left-overs of roast fowl. 

Boil the rice until it is about half done in salted 
water. Then let the water cook away and begin 
adding the broth, in such quantity that the rice 
will be nearly dry when it is tender. Fry one chop- 

22 



ped onion in the oil or fat. Some mushrooms cut 
up small are a very good addition to this "Soffrit- 
to." Mince the chicken giblets and add to the 
onion. Stir the mixture into the rice. Add grated 
cheese and a beaten egg just as the rice is taken 
from the fire. 

24 
(Risotto con piselli) 

Wash and dry 1 j/2 Ib. rice ; chop fine one me- 
dium sized onion and put it on the fire with a 
small quantity of butter. 

When the onion is well browned, add the rice 
little by little, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add 
some boiling water one cup at a time. Drain the 
peas previously prepared (fresh or canned peas 
may be used) and add them toward the end of 
the cooking. When the whole is almost cooked, 
add some salt and take it away from the water 
almost dry. Add some butter, stir and serve hot. 

25 

RISOTTO WITH LOBSTER 
(Risotto coi gamberi) 

For this risotto either lobster or crab meat can 
be used : the former is, however, considered more 
tasty. The lobster or crab meat ought to be about 
half the weight of the rice employed. A little 
more than a pound of rice and half this weight 

23 



of crab meat ought to be enough for six persons. 
Chop fine a sprig of parsley, a stalk of celery, 
one carrot, half an onion a clove of garlic and 
brown the whole in good olive oil. When brown- 
ed, add the crab meat and season with salt and 
pepper. During the cooking process stir and turn 
over the crabs, and when they have become red, 
pour over as much hot water as is necessary to 
cook the rice. 

After the water boils for a while, remove the 
lobster (or crab, or craw-fish) leaving the sauce- 
pan on the fire. Put half of the crabs aside, and 
grind the rest. Rub the ground meat through the 
sieve and put it back on the fire. In another 
saucepan melt some butter and put into it little by 
little the rice that has been washed and dried. 
Stir and add the broth from the first saucepan. 
When the rice is almost cooked add the craw-fish 
that you have put aside, or rather its meat ex- 
tracted from the shells, take from the fire and 
pour over it the fish mixture, adding some grated 
cheese. 

26 

RICE WITH SAFFRON 
(Riso alia Milanese con Zafferano) 

Wash and dry the rice and put it in boiling 
broth (beef or chicken broth). When the rice 
is half cooked add half its weight of marrow of 
beef bone, cut into small pieces. A few minutes 

24 



are sufficient for the cooking of the marrow. 
Add grated cheese and remove the kettle from 
the fire. 

Dissolve some saffron in one or two table- 
spoonfuls of broth; sift it through a sieve and 
mix with rice, which is to be served very hot, 
and makes an excellent soup. 

27 
RICE CAKES 

(Frittelle di riso) 

Cook the rice in milk, adding a small quantity 
of butter, some salt, half a teaspoon of sugar and 
just a taste of lemon peel. Let the rice cool 
down after being thoroughly cooked, then add 
three yolks of eggs (for J/4 Ib. of rice) and some 
flour. Mix well and let the whole rest for several 
hours. When about to fry, beat the white of the 
eggs to a froth, add to the rice mixing slowly, and 
put into the saucepan with a ladle. 

28 
FRIED ARTICHOKE 

(Carciofi fritti) 

Take two artichokes, cut out the hard part of 
the leaves and of the stalk, cut them in two. 
Then cut these halves into section or slices so 
as to have eight or ten for each artichoke, accord- 
ing to size. As you cut them, throw them into 

25 



cold water and when they are well washed, dry 
them, but not thoroughly, putting them at once 
into the flour so that the latter remains attached 
to it. Beat the white of an egg, but not to a 
froth, then mix the yolk with the white and salt 
the whole. Shake out the artichokes to take 
away the superfluous flour and then put them 
in the egg, leaving them for a while so that the 
egg may be attached to them. 

Throw the pieces one by one into the pan 
where there is boiling fat, butter or olive oil, and 
when they are well browned, take them away and 
serve with lemon. If it is desired that the articho- 
kes remain white, it is better to fry them in oil 
and to squeeze half lemon into the water where 
the artichokes are put to soften. 

29 

STEAMED ARTICHOKES 
(Carcion a vapore) 

Artichokes have been only recently imported 
to the United States, principally by Italian 
farmers, and they are just beginning to find their 
way into the American kitchen. The artichokes 
may be eaten raw or cooked. It is a healthy and 
palatable vegetable, easily digested when cooked. 
It is nutritious and adapted for convalescents. It 
may be prepared in a thousand ways, and here 
follow some of the simplest and most tasteful. 

To prepare the steamed artichokes they must 

26 



first be cleaned and the stalk cut to less than half 
an inch. Put them in a saucepan, standing on 
their bottoms, one near the other, in half an inch 
or more of water. In an opening made in the 
middle put salt and pepper, and pour inside 
as much good olive oil as they may contain. Cover 
well the saucepan and put it on the fire. The 
artichokes, that are already seasoned, will be 
cooked by the steam. 

30 
STEWED ARTICHOKES 

(Carciofi in stufato) 

Wash the artichokes and cut the hard part of 
the leaves (the top). Widen the leaves and 
insert a hash composed of bread crumbs, parsely, 
salt, pepper and oil. Place the artichokes in the 
saucepan standing on their stalk, one touching 
the other. Cover them with water and let them 
cook for two hours or more. When the leaves are 
easily detached they are cooked. 

31 

ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTER 
(Carciofi al burro) 

Wash, dry and cut out the top of the leaves of 
as many artichokes as are needed. Cut them in 
two or four and boil them in salt water. When 

27 



tender, drain them, have them slightly browned 
in melted butter and season with salt and pepper. 
When served in a vegetable dish or placed in a 
pyramid on a round plate, sprinkle with grated 
cheese. 

32 

FRIED SQUASH 
(Zucchine fritte) 

The squashes used by Italians for frying and 
other purposes are very small, and for this rea- 
son they are called "Zucchine" or small squashes. 
They can be bought at those shops kept by Italian 
vegetable dealers that are now to be found in 
large number in most American cities and, in- 
variably, in Italian neighborhoods during the sum- 
mer season. The "Zucchine" are an extremely 
tasty vegetable and they are especially good when 
fried. 

Select the squashes that are long and thin: 
wash them cut them in little strips less than half 
an inch thick. Take away the softer part of the 
interior and salt moderately. Leave them 
aside for an hour or two, then drain them but 
don't dry them. Put them in flour and rub gently 
in a sieve to take away the superfluous flour: 
immediately after put them in a saucepan where 
there is already oil, fat or butter boiling. At the 
beginning don't touch them to avoid breaking, 

28 



and only when they have become a little hard- 
ened stir them and remove when they begin to be 
browned. 

33 
LAMB OMELET 

(Agnello in frit tat a) 

Cut in little pieces a loin of lamb, which is the 
part that lends itself best for this dish, and fry 
in lard: a little quantity of lard is sufficient, be- 
cause the meat of the loins is rather fat. When 
half cooked season with salt and pepper and 
when fully cooked pour over four or five whole 
eggs slightly beaten also seasoned moderately 
with salt and pepper. Mix, taking care that the 
eggs do not harden. 

34 
FRIED CHICKEN 

(Polio fritto) 

Wash a spring chicken and keep in boiling 
water for one minute. Cut into pieces at the 
joints, roll them in flour, season with salt and 
pepper and dip in two whole beaten eggs. After 
leaving the pieces of chicken for half an hour, 
roll them in bread crumbs, repeating the operation 
twice if necessary. Put into a saucepan with 
boiling oil or fat, seeing that the pieces of chicken 
are well browned on both sides. Keep the fire 
low. Serve hot with lemon. 

29 



35 

CHICKEN ALLA CACCIATORA 
(Polio alia cacciatora) 

Chop one large onion and keep it for more than 
half an hour in cold water, then dry it and brown 
it aside. Cut up a chicken, sprinkle the pieces 
with flour, salt and pepper and saute in the fat 
which remains in the frying pan. When the 
chicken is brown add one pint fresh or canned 
tomatoes and half a dozen sweet green peppers 
and put back the onion. When the gravy is 
thick enough add hot water to prevent the burn- 
ing of the vegetables. Cover the pan tightly and 
simmer until the chicken is very tender. This is 
an excellent way to cook tough chickens. Fowls 
which have been boiled may be cooked in this 
way, but of course young and tender chickens 
will have the finer flavor. 

36 

CORN MEAL WITH SAUSAGES 
(Polenta con salsicce) 

Cook in water one cup of yellow cornmeal 
making a stiff mush. Salt it well and when it is 
cooked spread out to cool on a bread board about 
half an inch thick. Then cut the mush into small 
squares. 

30 



Put in a saucepan several whole sausages with 
a little water, and when they are cooked skin and 
crush them and add some brown stock or tomato 
sauce. 

Put the polenta (or cornmeal mush) in a fire- 
proof receptacle, season with grated cheese, the 
crushed sausages and a piece of butter. Put it 
in the oven and serve when hot. 

37 
POLENTA PIE 

(Polenta Pasticciata) 

Make a very stiff mush of cornmeal cooked in 
milk. Salt it well and spread out on the bread 
board in a sheet about one inch thick. When 
cold, cut in little diamonds or squares and place 
these in a buttered baking dish. Prepare the Bo- 
lognese souce according to the following recipe: 
Chop |/4 Ib. round steak, a slice of pork or bacon, 
one small carrot '/4 onion, one large piece celery. 
Put the meat and vegetables over the fire with a 
piece of butter. When the meat has browned 
add half a tablespoon of flour and wet the mix- 
ture with hot water or broth, allowing it to sim- 
mer from half an hour to an hour. It is done 
when it is the consistency of a thick gravy. 

Make a smooth white sauce with milk corn- 
starch and butter. Over a layer of the polenta, 
cut as above and placed in the baking dish sprin- 

31 



kle some grated cheese and a few tablespoons 
each of the white sauce and the meat sauce. Re- 
peat until the dish is full. Bake until the top is 
nicely browned. This dish seems very elaborate, 
but it is very delicious and a meal in itself. 

The Bolognese sauce is also used to season 
macaroni or spaghetti in lieu of the tomato sauce 
or the brown stock. 

38 

STUFFED ROLLS 
(Pagnottelle ripiene) 

Take some rolls, and by means of a round 
opening on the top, as large as a half dollar piece 
or less, extract nearly all the crumb, leaving the 
crust intact, but not too thin. Wet inside and 
outside with hot milk, and when they are fairly 
soaked, dip in beaten eggs and fry them in lard 
or oil. When beginning to brown, fill them with 
meat that has been previously chopped and cook- 
ed. This chopped meat ought to be made with 
breast of chicken, chicken giblets, liver etc., 
brown stock and some flour to hold it together. 

39 
STEWED VEAL 

(Stracotto di vitella) 

The stock from this dish may very well be 
used to season macaroni or boiled rice. Care 

32 



must be taken, however, not to draw away all 
the juice of the meat in order to have a sauce 
too rich at the expense of the principal dish. 

Place in a saucepan one pound of veal or more, 
bone included, a piece of butter or some olive oil 
(or the two together) half a medium sized onion, 
one small carrot, two celery stalks cut in small 
pieces. Season with salt and pepper. Put it on 
a low fire, turn the meat over often and when 
browned add a pinch of flour and some tomato 
paste, bringing it to full cooking with water pour- 
ed little by little. The flour is used to keep the 
sauce together and give it color, but care must 
be taken not to burn it, because in that case the 
sauce would have an unpleasant taste and a black, 
instead of a reddish color. The addition of dried 
mushrooms, previously softened in the water and 
slightly boiled in the sauce will add greatly to its 
taste. 

As has been said the sauce can well be used 
to season spaghetti or risotto. The stewed veal 
can be served with some vegetable. 




(Polio dissossato ripieno) 

To remove the bones from a chicken the fol- 
lowing instructions will be found useful. 

Wash and singe the fowl: take off the head 

33 



and legs, and remove the tendons. When a fowl 
is to be boned it is not drawn. The work of bon- 
ing is not difficult, but it requires practice. The 
skin must not be broken. Use a small pointed 
knife cut the skin down the full length of the 
back; then, beginning at the neck, carefully 
scrape the meat away from the bone, keeping the 
knife close to the bone. When the joints of the 
wings and legs are met, break them back and pro- 
ceed to free the meat from the carcass. When one 
side is free, turn the fowl and do the same on the 
other side. The skin is drawn tightly over the 
breast-bone, and care must be used to detach it 
without piercing the skin. When the meat is 
free from the carcass, remove the bones from the 
legs and wings, turning the meat down or inside 
out, as the bones are exposed, and using care 
not to break the skin at the joints. The end 
bones of the wing cannot be removed, and the 
whole end joint may be cut off or left as it is. 

Now that the fowl is boned make the following 
stuffing, regulating the quantity on the size of 
the chicken. Chop half a pound or more, of lean 
veal, and grind it afterwards, so that it may make 
a paste. Add a large piece of bread crumb soak- 
ed in broth, a tablespoon of grated cheese, three 
yolks of egg, salt, pepper and, if desired, just a 
taste of nutmeg. Finally mix also one or two 
slices of ham and tongue, cut in small pieces. 
Stuff the boned chicken with this filling, sew up 

34 



the opening, wrap it tightly in a cloth and put to 
cook in water on a low fire. When taken from 
the water, remove the wrapping and brown it, 
first with butter, then in a sauce made in the 
following way: Break all the bones that have 
been extracted from the chicken, the head and 
neck included, and put them on the fire with dried 
meat cut in little pieces, butter, onion, celery and 
carrot, seasoned with salt and pepper. Make the 
sauce with the water in which the chicken has 
been boiled, which has naturally become a good 
chicken broth. 

Before sending to the table, remove the thread 
with which the chicken has been sewed. 

41 

CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES 
(Polio alia contadina) 

Take a young chicken and make some little 
holes in the skin in which you will put some 
sprigs of rosemary and a clove of garlic cut into 
five or six pieces. Put it on the fire with chopped 
lard and season with salt and pepper inside and 
outside. When it is well browned on all parts 
add tomatoes cut in pieces, taking care to remove 
previously all the seeds. Moisten with broth or 
water. Brown some potatoes in oil, fat or butter, 
previously cutting them into sections. When 
browned dip in the sauce of the chicken and serve 
the whole together. 

35 



42 

CHICKEN WITH SHERRY 
(Polio al marsala) 

Cut the chicken in big pieces and put it in the 
saucepan with one medium sized onion chopped 
fine and a piece of butter. Season with salt and 
pepper and, when it is well browned, add some 
broth and complete the cooking. Remove the 
excessive fat from the sauce by sifting through 
a sieve or otherwise, and put the chicken back 
on the fire with a glass of Sherry or Marsala 
wine, removing it from the fire as soon as the 
sauce begins to boil. 

43 

CHICKEN WITH SAUSAGES 
(Polio colle salsicce) 

Chop fine half an onion and put it in a sauce- 
pan with a piece of butter and four or five slices 
of ham, half an inch wide. Over these ingre- 
dients place a whole chicken, season with pepper 
and a little salt and place on the fire. Brown it 
on all sides and, when the onion is all melted, 
add water or broth and three or four sausages 
freshly made. Let it cook on a low fire, seeing 
that the sauce remains liquid and does not dry up. 



36 



44 

CHICKEN WITH EGG SAUCE 
(Polio in salsa d'uova) 

Break into pieces a young chicken and put it 
in the saucepan with a piece of butter. Season 
with salt and pepper. When it is half browned 
sprinkle with a pinch of flour to give it color, 
then complete the cooking with broth. Remove 
it from the same and put it on a plate. Beat the 
yolk of one egg with the piece of half a lemon 
and pour it on the sauce of the chicken, allowing 
it to simmer for some minutes. Then pour on 
the chicken and serve hot. 

45 

CHICKEN BREASTS SAUTfcS 
(Petti di polio alia saute) 

Cut the breast of a fowl in very thin slices, 
give them the best possible shape and make a 
whole piece from the little pieces that will re- 
main, cleaning well the breast-bone, crushing and 
mixing these. Season with salt and pepper and 
dip the slices in beaten eggs, leaving them for a 
few hours. Sprinkle with bread crumbs ground 
fine and saute in butter. Serve with lemon. 

If you want this dish more elaborate prepare 
a sauce in the following way: Put some good 
olive oil in a frying pan, just enough to cover the 
bottom, and cover the oil with a layer of dry 

37 



mushrooms. Sprinkle over a small quantity of 
grated cheese and some bread crumbs. Repeat 
the same operation three or four times, according 
to the quantity, and finally season with olive oil, 
salt and pepper and small pieces of butter. Put 
the pan over the fire and when it has begun to 
boil pour a small cup of brown stock or broth 
and a little lemon juice. Remove the same from 
the fire and pour it on the chicken breast that 
have been browned as described above. 

46 
WILD DUCK 

(Anitra selvatica) 

Clean the duck, putting aside the giblets, and 
cut off the head and legs. Chop fine a thick slice 
of ham with both lean and fat together, with a 
moderate amount of celery, parsley, carrot and 
half medium sized onion. Put the chopped ham 
and vegetables in a saucepan and lay the duck on 
the whole, seasoning wtih salt and pepper. 
Brown on all sides and add water to complete the 
cooking. 

Cabbage or lentils, cooked in water and after- 
ward allowed to complete the cooking in the sauce 
obtained from the duck, form a good addition. 

To remove the "gamey" taste from the wild 
duck, either wash it in vinegar before cooking or 
scald it in boiling water. 

38 



47 

STEWED SQUABS 
(Piccioni in umido) 

Garnish the squabs with whole sage leaves 
and place them in a saucepan over a bed of small 
slices of ham containing both lean and fat, season 
with salt, pepper and olive oil. Place on the fire 
and when they begin to be browned, add a piece 
of butter and complete the cooking by pouring 
in some good broth. Before removing from the fire 
squeeze one lemon over them and garnish with 
squares or diamonds of toasted bread. Take care 
not to add too much salt on account of the ham 
and the broth both containing salt. 

Note Many of these dishes, it will be noticed, 
are made with broth. When meat broth is not 
available, it can be prepared with bouillon cubes 
or with Liebig or Armour Extracts. It is, how- 
ever, always preferable to use broth made with 
fresh meat. 

48 

RAGOUT OF SQUABS 
(Manicaretto di piccione) 

Cut two or more squabs at the joints, prefer- 
ably in four parts each, and put them on the fire 
with a slice of ham, a piece of butter, and a 
bunch of parsley. When they begin to dry, add 
some broth and before they are completely 

39 



cooked their giblets and fresh mushrooms cut 
in slices. Continue pouring in broth and allow 
the whole to simmer on a low fire. Add another 
piece of butter over which some flour has been 
sprinkled, or flour alone. Before serving, re- 
move the ham and the bunch of greens and 
squeeze some lemon juice over the squabs. 

Some sweetbread may be added with good 
effect, but it must be first scalded and the skin 
removed. 

49 

SQUAB TIMBALE 
(Timballo di piccioni) 

Chop together some ham, onion, celery and 
carrot, add a piece of butter and place on the 
fire with one or two squabs, according to the 
number of guests. Add the giblets from the 
squabs and some more of chicken, if at hand. 
Season with salt and pepper, and when the pi- 
geons are browned, pour over some broth to com- 
plete the cooking, taking care, however, that the 
sauce does not become too liquid. Remove the 
latter and place in it some macaroni that has been 
half cooked and drained. Keep the macaroni in 
the sauce on the fire, stirring them. Make a 
well reduced Bechamel sauce, then cut the squabs 
at the joints, removing the neck, the legs and the 
bones of the back, when you would not bone 

40 



them entirely, which would be better. Cut the 
giblets in small pieces and remove the soft part of 
the onion. 

When the macaroni have absorbed the sauce, 
season them with grated cheese, pieces of butter, 
diamonds or squares of ham, a taste of nutmeg 
and some truffles or dry mushrooms previously 
softened in water. Add finally the Bechamel sauce 
and mix the whole. 

Take a sufficiently large mold, butter it and 
line it with soft pastry. Put everything in the 
mold, or timbale, cover it with the same pastry 
and put in the oven. Take out of the mold and 
serve hot. Three quarters of a pound of maca- 
roni and two pigeons are enough for ten per- 
sons. 

50 

SALMI OF GAME 
(Uccelli in salmi) 

Roast the game completely, seasoning with 
salt and pepper. If the game be small birds, leave 
them whole, if big cut them in four parts. Re- 
move all the heads and grind them together with 
some pieces of birds, or some whole little 
birds. Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful 
of butter one half pound of bacon or ham 
cut into dice, brown stock or broth, one 
tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot, 
one tablespoonful each of salt, thyme and sage. 

41 



Allow the sauce to simmer for half an hour then 
rub it through a sieve and place in it the roasted 
game. Make it boil until the cooking is complet- 
ed and serve with toasted diamonds of bread. 

51 

STEWED HARE 
(Stufato di lepre) 

Take half of a good sized hare and, after cutting 
it in pieces, chop fine one medium sized onion, 
one clove of garlic, a stalk of celery and several 
leaves of rosemary. Put on the fire with some 
pieces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of olive oil 
and four or five strips of bacon or salt pork, when 
the whole has been browning for four or five 
minutes, put the pieces of hare inside the sauce- 
pan and season them with salt, pepper and spices. 
When it is browned, put a wineglass of white 
wine, some fresh mushrooms, or dry mushrooms 
previously softenend in water. Complete the 
cooking with broth and tomato sauce and, if ne- 
cessary, add another piece of butter. 

52 

STEWED RABBIT 
(Coniglio in umido) 

After washing the rabbit, cut it in rather large 
pieces and put it on the fire to drive away the 
water that is to be drained. When quite dry, put 

42 



in the saucepan a piece of butter, a little oil, and 
a hash composed of the liver of the rabbit itself, 
a small piece of corned beef and some onion, 
celery, carrot and parsley. Season with salt and 
pepper. Stir often and when it is browned add 
some tomato sauce and another piece of butter. 

53 
GREEN SAUCE 

(Salsa verde) 

Chop all together some capers that have been 
in vinegar, one anchovy, a small slice of onion 
and just a taste of garlic. Crush the resulting 
hash with the blade of a knife to make it very 
fine. Add a sprig of parsley, chopped together 
with some leaves of basil and dissolve the whole 
in very good olive oil and lemon juice. 

This sauce is excellent to season boiled chicken 
or cold boiled fish or hard boiled eggs. 

Green Peppers can take the place of capers, if 
these are not at hand. 

54 

WHITE SAUCE 
(Salsa bianca) 

This sauce can be served with boiled asparagus 
or with cauliflower. The ingredients are !/ lb. 
of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, a tablespoon- 

43 



ful vinegar, one yolk of egg, salt and pepper, 
broth or water in sufficient quantity. 

Put first on the fire the flour with half the but- 
ter and when it begins to be browned pour over it 
the broth or the water little by little, stirring with 
the wooden spoon and adding the rest of the 
butter and the vinegar without making the water 
boil too much. When taken off the fire add the 
yolk of the egg, stir and serve. 

55 
YELLOW SAUCE 

(Salsa gialla) 

This sauce is especially good for boiled fish, 
and the quantities indicated below are sufficient 
for a piece of fish or a whole fish weighing about 
a pound. 

Put on the fire in a little saucepan one tea- 
spoonful of flour and two ounces of butter, and 
when the flour begins to be browned, pour over it 
little by little one cup of the broth of the fish, that 
is to say of the water in which the fish has been 
boiled. When you see that the flour does not 
rise in the boiling water, take away the sauce 
from the flour and pour over two tablespoonfuls 
of olive oil and the yolk of an egg, stirring and 
mixing everything well. Squeeze in the sauce 
half a lemon and season generously with salt and 
pepper. Let it cool and then pour over the fish 
that is to be served with a sprig of parsley. 

44 



This sauce must have the appearance of a 
cream and must not be too liquid, in order that 
it may remain attached to the fish. 

56 

SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH 
(Salsa per pesce in gratella) 

This sauce is composed of yolks of eggs, salted 
anchovies, olive oil and lemon juice. Boil the 
eggs in their shell for ten minutes and for every 
hard yolk take one large anchovy or two small. 
Bone the anchovies and rub them on the sieve 
together with the hard (or semi-hard) yolks, and 
dissolve all with oil and lemon juice to reduce it 
like a cream. Cover with this sauce the broiled 
fish before sending to the table, or serve aside in 
a gravy boat. 

57 

CAPER SAUCE 
(Salsa con capper!) 

This sauce is especially adapted for boiled fish 
and the quantities are for a little more than one 
pound of fish. The ingredients are two ounces 
of butter, two ounces of capers soaked in vinegar 
one teaspoonful of flour, salt, pepper and vinegar. 

Boil the fish and, when it is left warm in its 
broth, prepare the sauce. Put on the fire the flour 

45 



with half of the butter, mix it and when it begins 
to take color, add the remaining butter. 

Let boil a little and then pour one half cup of 
the broth of the fish: season generously with salt 
and pepper and take the saucepan from the fire. 
Then throw in it the capers, half whole, half chop- 
ped, and some drops of vinegar, but taste it to 
dose the sauce so that it is pleasant to the taste 
and as thick as liquid cream. 

It is well to observe here that these sauces in 
which butter is used together with aids, such as 
vinegar, are not for weak stomachs and should 
be partaken of sparingly. 

58 
GENOVESE SAUCE 

(Salsa genovese) 

Chop fine a sprig of parsley and half a clove of 
garlic. Then mix with some capers soaked in 
vinegar, one anchovy, one hard yolk of egg, three 
pitless olives, a crumb of bread as big as an egg, 
soaked in vinegar. Grind all these ingredients, 
rub through a sieve and dissolve in olive oil, dos- 
ing right by tasting. 

59 
BALSAMELLA SAUCE 

(Salsa balsamella) 

This sauce resembles the famous French Be- 
chamel Sauce, but it is simpler in its composi- 
tion. 

46 



Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of flour 
and a piece of butter as big as an egg. Stir the 
flour and the butter together while keeping them 
over the fire. When the flour begins to be brown- 
ed, pour over a pint of milk, continually stirring 
with a wooden spoon until you see the liquid 
condensed like a cream. This is the Balsamella. 
If it is too thick add some milk, if too liquid put 
back on the fire with another piece of butter 
dipped in flour. 

A good Balsamella and some well prepared 
brown stock are the base and the principal secret 
of many savory dishes. 

60 

CURLED OMELET 
(Frittata in riccioli) 

Boil a bunch of spinach and rub it through 
a sieve. Beat two eggs, season with salt and pep- 
per and mix with them enough spinach to make 
the eggs appear green. Put the frying pan on the 
fire with only enough oil to grease it and when 
very hot put in a portion of the eggs, moving the 
frying pan so as to make a very thin omelet. 
When well cooked, remove it from the frying 
pan and repeat the operation once or twice in 
order to have two or three very thin omelets. 
Put these one over the other and cut them in 
small strips that are to be browned in butter 

47 



adding a little grated cheese. These strips of 
omelet, resembling noodles, form a tasty and at- 
tractive dressing for a fricandeau (veal stew) or 
a similar dish. 

61 
VEAL KIDNEY OMELET 

(Frittata di rognone di vitella) 

Take a veal kidney, open it lengthwise and 
leave all its fat. Season with oil, salt and pepper, 
broil it and cut in thin slices. Beat enough eggs 
in proportion to the size of the kidney, season 
them with salt and pepper, both in moderate 
quantity and mix with them a sprig of parsley 
and some grated cheese. Put the sliced kidney 
in the eggs, mix all together and make an omelet 
with some butter. 

62 
PUFF PASTE 

(Pasta sfoglia) 

The Pasta sfoglia is not too difficult to make 
and if the following instructions are carefully 
followed, this fine and light paste can easily be 
prepared. It is well to have a marble slab to roll 
it on but this is not absolutely necessary. A 
warm, damp day is not favorable for the making 
of the Pasta sfoglia, which succeeds better when 
the weather is cold and dry. 

48 



Mix half a pound of flour of the very best 
quality with a piece of butter as big as a walnut, 
some warm, but not hot water, enough salt and 
a teaspoonful of good brandy. When the paste 
is formed knead it well for about half an hour, 
first with the hands, then throwing it repeatedly 
with force against the bread board. Make a cake 
of a rectangular form, wrap it in cloth and let it 
rest for a while. Meanwhile work with the hand 
J/2 lb. of butter that has been kept previously on 
ice or, better, in a bowl of ice-water, until it be- 
comes smooth and flexible, then make of it a 
little cake like that of the paste and throw it in a 
bowl of cold water. When the dough has rested 
take the butter from the water, wipe it with a 
cloth and dip it in flour. 

Roll the paste only as long as it is necessary 
to enclose within the cake of butter. This is 
placed in the middle and the edges of the sheet 
of paste are drawn over it, closing well with fin- 
gers moistened in a little water so that no air 
remains inside. Then begin to flatten, first with 
the hands, then with the rolling pin, making the 
sheet as thin as possible, but taking care that the 
butter does not come out. If this happens throw 
at once a little flour where the butter appears 
and always have the marble slab (or bread board) 
and the rolling pin sprinkled with flour. Fold it 
over, making three even layers of paste, and 
again roll the folded strip, repeating the operation 

49 



six times and letting the paste rest from time to 
time for a few minutes. At the last time, fold it 
in two and reduce it to the necessary thickness 
that is, about one third of an inch. After each 
folding press the edges gently with the rolling 
pin to shut in the air, and turn the paste so as to 
roll in a different direction. 

When the paste has had six turns cut it into 
the desired forms and put on ice, or in a cold 
place for twenty to thirty minutes before putting 
it on the oven, which must be very hot, with the 
greatest heat at the bottom. 

The puff past is used for pate shells and vol- 
au-vent cake and for light pastries of all kinds. 

63 
PASTE FOR FRYING 

(Pastella per fritto) 

Dilute three teaspoonfuls of flour with two 
teaspoonfuls of oil. Add two eggs, a pinch of 
salt, and mix well. This mixture will take on 
the aspect of a smooth cream and is used to glaze 
fried brains, sweetbreads and the like. All these 
things are first to be scalded in boiling salt water. 
Add a pinch of salt and one of pepper when 
taking from the water. The brains, sweetbreads 
etc. are then to be cut in irregular pieces, thrown 
into the paste, or cream, described above and fried 
in oil or good lard. 

50 



In frying these are often united to liver or veal 
cutlets. The liver must be cut in very thin slices 
and the cutlets beaten with the side of a big knife 
and given a good shape. Season with salt and 
pepper, dip in beaten egg and after a few hours 
sprinkle with bread crumbs and fry. Serve with 
lemon. 

64 

CHICKEN STUFFING 
(Ripieno di polio) 

The ingredients are '/J lb. lean veal or 
pork or breast of turkey and chicken giblets. 
Cook this meat together with a little hash of 
onion, parsley, celery, carrot and butter. Season 
with salt pepper and spices, moistening it with 
broth. Take dry from the fire, take off the soft 
parts of the giblets, add a few dry mushrooms soft 
ened in water, a little slice of lean fat ham and 
chop everything fine. Into the sauce that has 
remained from the cooking throw enough bread- 
crumbs to make a tablespoonful of hard soaked 
bread. Mix it with the chopped hash, add a pinch 
of grated cheese and two eggs and fill the chicken 
with all this, sewing up the opening afterwards. 
The chicken can be boiled or stewed. If boiled you 
will have an excellent bouillon, but pay attention 
when cutting the chicken to extract the stuffing 
in one piece in order to slice it. 

51 



65 
MEAT STUFFING FOR VOL-AU-VENT 

(Ripieno di came per pasticcini 
di pasta sfoglia) 

This stuffing can be made either with stewed 
veal or chicken giblets or sweetbreads. The 
latter are preferable, being more delicate and a 
taste of truffles greatly improves the stuffing. If 
sweetbreads are used, put them on the fire with 
a piece of butter and season with salt and pepper. 
When they have begun to take color, complete 
the cooking with some brown stock, then cut 
them in pieces as little as a bean. Add one or 
two spoons of Balsamella (see No. 54) a little 
tongue, one or two slices of ham cut in little 
squares, a pinch of grated cheese and a taste of 
nutmeg, seeing that the ingredients are in such 
quantities as to make the mixture tasty and deli- 
cate. Leave it cool well, as in this way it hardens 
and can be worked better. 

In order to enclose it in pate shells made with 
puff-paste (see No. 57) there are two ways. One 
is to cook the shells filled with the stuffing, the 
other to fill them after they are cooked. In the 
first case put the stuffing in the prepared disk of 
paste, moisten the edge with a wet finger, cover 
-with another disk of paste and cook. In the se- 
cond case, which is more convenient because the 
shells can be prepared one day before, the two 

52 



disks are put together without the stuffing, but 
in the upper disk a circular cut must be made as 
large as a half dollar coin. The pate on cooking 
swells and leaves an empty space in the interior. 
Lifting with the point of a knife the little circle 
above, which has the form of a cover, the interior 
space can be made larger, rilled with the stuffing 
and covered with the little cover. In this way it 
is enough to warm them before sending to the 
table. The puff-paste must always be glazed with 
the yolk of eggs. 

If a large vol-au-vent is to.be filled instead of 
little pate-shells, a ragout of chicken giblets and 
sweetbread, cut in large pieces, is better. 

66 

PORK LIVER FRIED 
(Fegato di maiale fritto) 

Cut in to thin slices some pork liver, sprinkle 
with flour and fry in good lard. It must be served 
with its sauce. Squeeze in a lemon while it is fry- 
ing. 

67 

FRIED CROQUETTES, BOLOGNA STYLE 
(Fritto composto alia Bolognese) 

Take a piece of stewed lean veal, a little brain 
boiled or stewed, and a slice of ham. Chop and 
grind everything fine. Add a yolk of egg or a. 

53 



whole egg, according to the quantity, and a little 
Balsamella (see No. 54). Put the hash on the 
fire and stir until the egg is cooked. Add finally 
grated cheese, a taste of nutmeg, and, if you have 
them, some truffles chopped very fine and put in 
a plate. When quite cold make some little balls 
as large as a walnut and roll them in flour. Then 
dip in beaten egg and bread crumb ground very 
fine, repeating the operation twice, and fry. 

68 

ROMAN FRY 

(Fritto alia Romana) 

I. 

Put on the fire a hash of onion and butter and 
when it is well browned cook in it a piece of 
lean veal seasoned with salt and pepper. When 
the meat begins to brown put in a little sherry 
wine to complete the cooking. 

Pound the whole to soften it a little using the 
sauce remained and if this is not enough add 
some broth and finally the yolk of an egg. See 
that the whole is not softened too much. 

Now take some wafers, not too thin and cut 
them in squares similar to those used by drug- 
gists. Beat one egg and the white from the other 
egg, then take a wafer, dip it in the egg and place 
it on a layer of bread crumbs ground fine. On 
the wafer put a little ball of the compound 

54 



above, then dip another wafer in the egg, 
make it touch the bread crumbs only from the 
part that remains outside, and with this cover 
the compound attaching it to the lower wafer. 
Sprinkle again with bread crumbs if necessary and 
put the piece aside repeating the operation until 
all the meat is disposed of. Cook in oil or fat 
and serve with lemon. 

With half a pound of meat about twenty filled 
wafers should be obtained. 

69 
ROMAN FRY 

II. 

This can be made when you happen to have 
some breast of roast chicken left over. Some 
chicken breast, two or three slices of tongue and 
ham, one tablespoonful of grated cheese, a taste 
of nutmeg, are the ingredients used. Remove the 
skin of the chicken and cut it as well as the ton- 
gue and the ham, into little cubes. Make a Bal- 
samella (see No. 54) in sufficient quantity and 
when it is cooked add the above ingredients and 
let it cool well to fry using the wafer as in the 
preceding. 

70 

RICE PANCAKE 
(Frittelle di riso) 

Cook thoroughly Y^ Ib. of rice in about a pint 
of water giving it taste with a little piece of sugar 

55 



and a taste of lemon peel. Leave it cool and then 
add three yolks of eggs and a little flour. Mix 
well and let the whole rest for several hours. 
When you are going to fry beat the white of an 
egg to a froth, add it to the rice and throw into 
the frying pan one tablespoonful at a time. 
Serve hot sprinkled with confectionery sugar. 

71 

KIDNEY SAUTE* 
(Rognoni saltati) 

Take one large kidney, or two or. three small 
kidneys, open them and remove all the fat. Cut 
lengthwise in thin slices, salt and pour as much 
boiling water as is needed to cover them. When 
the water is thoroughly cooled, drain it and wipe 
well the slices with a cloth, then put them in a 
frying pan with a small piece of butter. Turn 
them often and when they have cooked for five 
minutes put in a pinch of flour and season with 
salt and pepper. Leave them on the fire until 
thoroughly cooked and when you are going to 
take them away add another piece of butter, a 
sprig of chopped parsley and a little broth if need- 
ed. The kidney must not be kept too much on 
the fire, because in that case it hardens. 



56 



72 

LEG OF MUTTON IN CASSEROLE 
(Cosciotto di castrato in cazzaruola) 

Take a shoulder or a leg of mutton and after 
having boned, it lard it with small pieces of bacon 
dipped in salt and pepper. Salt moderately the 
meat then tie it tight and put it on the fire in a 
pan that contains a piece of butter and one large 
onion larded with clover. When it begins to 
brown, take it away from the fire and add a cup of 
broth, or of water, a little bunch of greens and 
some tomatoes cut in pieces. Put again on a low 
fire and let it simmer for three hours, keeping the 
saucepan closed, but opening from time to time 
to turn the meat. When it is cooked, throw 
away the onion, rub the sauce through a sieve, 
remove its fat and put it with the meat when 
served. The mutton must not be overdone, for 
in this case it cannot be sliced. 

73 

STEWED CUTLETS 
(Scaloppine alia Livornese) 

Take some slices of tender beef, beat them well 
and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. 
When this is all melted, put one or two table- 
spoonfuls of broth to complete the cooking, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, add a pinch of flour 

57 



and before taking them from the fire put in a 
pinch of chopped parsley. 

74 

CUTLETS OF CHOPPED MEAT 
(Scaloppine di came battuta) 

Take some good lean beef, clean it well, re- 
moving all little skins and tendons, then first chop 
and after grind the meat fine in the grinder. Sea- 
son with salt, pepper and a pinch of grated cheese. 
Mix well and give the meat the form of a ball 
then with bread crumbs over and beneath flatten 
it with the rolling pin on the bread board making 
a sheet of meat as thick as a silver dollar. Cut 
it in square pieces, as large as the palm of the hand 
and cook in a saucepan with butter. When these 
cutlets are browned, pour over some tomato 
sauce and serve. 

If you prefer, use your hands instead of the 
rolling pin and then you can give them the shapes 
you like. 

If you have some left over meat this can per- 
fectly well be mixed with the raw meat and chop- 
ped and ground together. 

75 

VEAL CUTLETS STEWED 
(Scaloppine alia Genovese) 

Cut some lean veal meat into slices and, sup- 
posing it be a pound or a little more, without 

58 



bones, chop one fourth of a middle-sized onion 
and put it in a saucepan with oil and a little piece 
of butter. Put over the cutlets, one layer over 
the other, season with salt and butter and put on 
the fire. When the meat which is below is 
browned put in a teaspoonful of flour and after 
a while a hash of parsley with half a clove of 
garlic. Then detach the cutlets the one from the 
other, mix them, let them drink in the sauce, then 
pour hot water and a little tomato sauce. Make 
it boil slowly and not much to complete the cook- 
ing and serve with abundant sauce and with little 
diamonds of toast. 

76 

STUFFED CUTLET 
(Braciuoline ripiene) 

Slice from a piece of veal (about one pound) 
seven or eight cutlets and beat them well with 
a knife blade to flatten them. Then chop some 
tender veal meat and one or two slices of ham 
and add a small quantity of marrow bone (of 
veal) and grated cheese. The marrow and the 
grated cheese must be reduced to a paste with 
the blade of a knife. One egg is then added to 
tie up the hash and a pinch of pepper, but no 
salt on account of the ham and the cheese that 
already contain it. Spread the cutlets and put 
the hash in the middle, then roll them up and tie 
them with strong thread. 

59 



Now prepare a small hash with a little onion, a 
piece of celery a piece of carrot and a small quan- 
tity of corned beef and put it in the fire in a sauce- 
pan with a small piece of butter, at the same time 
that you put the cutlets. Season with salt and 
pepper and when they begin to brown pour some 
tomato sauce and complete the cooking with 
water. Before serving, remove the thread with 
which the cutlets have been tied. 

77 

MEAT OMELETTE 
(Polpettone) 

Take one pound of veal, without bones, clean 
it well taking away all skins and tendons and 
then chop it together with a slice of ham. Sea- 
son moderately with salt pepper and spices, add 
one whole egg then with moistened hands make 
a ball of the chopped meat and sprinkle with 
flour. 

Make a hash with two or three slices of onion 
(not more) parsley, celery, and carrot, put it on 
the fire with a piece of butter and when it is 
browned throw in the Polpettone. Brown well 
on all sides and then pour in the saucepan half 
a tumbler of water in which half a tablespoonful 
of flour has been previously diluted. Cover and 
make it simmer on a very low fire, seeing that it 
doesn't burn. When you serve with the gravy 
squeeze the juice of half a lemon over it. 

60 



If desired a hard boiled egg can be put shelled 
in the center of the meat ball, so that it gives it a 
better appearance when sliced. 

78 

LAMB WITH PEAS 
(Agnello ai piselli) 

Take a piece of lamb from the hind side, lard 
it with two cloves of garlic cut in little strips and 
with some sprigs of rosemary. Chop fine a piece 
of lard and a slice of corned beef. Put the lamb 
on the fire with this hash and a little oil and let 
it brown after seasoning with salt and pepper. 
When it is browned add a piece of butter, some 
tomato sauce, or tomato paste dissolved in water 
or soup stock and complete the cooking. Take 
away the lamb, put the peas in the gravy, and 
when they have simmered a little and are cooked 
put back the lamb and serve. 

79 

SHOULDER OF LAMB 
(Spalla d'agnello) 

Cut the meat of a shoulder of lamb in small 
pieces, or squares. Chop two small onions, 
brown them with a piece of butter and when they 
are browned put the meat and season with salt 
and pepper. Wait until the meat begins to brown 

61 



and then add another piece of butter dipped in 
flour. Mix the whole and complete the cooking 
with soup stock or water with bouillon cubea 
poured in little by little. 

80 
BREAST OF VEAL STEWED 

(Stufatino di petto di vitella) 

Break a piece of breast of veal leaving all its 
bones. 

Make a hash with garlic, parsley, celery and 
carrot; add oil, pepper and salt and put on the 
fire with the meat. Turn it over often, and when 
it begins to brown, sprinkle over a pinch of flour 
and a little tomato sauce or tomato paste diluted 
in water.. Complete the cooking with broth or 
water. Finally add a piece of butter and pieces of 
celery cut in big pieces which must have been be- 
fore half cooked in water and browned in butter. 
Care must be taken to keep the saucepan alwaya 
covered, in this as in other stews. 

81 

VEAL WITH GRAVY 
(Vitella in guazzetto) 

First take about one pound of veal and tie it 
well. Then cover the bottom of the saucepan with 
some thin slices of corned beef and a piece of 

62 



butter. Over this place half a lemon cut in four 
thin slices from which the skin and the seeds 
must be removed. Over all this put the veal 
which must be well browned on all sides, but 
care must be taken not to burn it on account of 
the small quantity of liquid. Afterward, remove 
the superfluous fat and pour over a cup of hot 
milk, that has boiled. Cover the saucepan and 
complete the cooking. Before serving rub the 
gravy through a sieve. 

82 
TRIPE WITH GRAVY 

Boil some tripe in water and when it is boiled, 
cut it in strips, one quarter of an inch wide and 
wipe it well with a cloth. Then put it in a sauce- 
pan with butter, and when this is melted, add 
some brown stock or good tomato sauce. Sea- 
son with salt and pepper, cook thoroughly and 
add a pinch of grated cheese before taking from 
the saucepan. 

83 

VEAL LIVER IN GRAVY 
(Fegato di vitella al sugo) 

Chop fine a scallion or an onion, make it brown 
in oil and butter, and when it has taken a dark 
red color, throw in the liver cut in thin slices. 
When half cooked season with salt, pepper and 

63 



a pinch of chopped parsley. Make it simmer on 
a low fire so that the gravy remains, and serve 
in its gravy, squeezing over some lemon juice 
when sent to the table. 

In this and in similar cases, when using seal- 
lions or onions, some advise putting these in a 
cloth after being chopped and dip them in cold 
water squeezing them dry after. 

84 

MUTTON CUTLETS AND FILET OF VEAL 
(Braciuole di castrato e filetto di vitella) 

Put in saucepan a slice of ham, some butter, a 
little bunch composed of carrot, celery and stems 
of parsley and over this some whole cutlets of 
mutton seasoned with salt and pepper. Make 
them brown on both sides, add another piece of 
butter, if necessary, and add to the cutlets some 
chicken giblets, sweetbreads and fresh or dry 
mushrooms (the latter softened in water, all cut 
in pieces. When all this begins to brown, pour 
some soup stock and let it simmer on a low fire. 
Sprinkle a little flour and finally pour a wineglass 
(or half a tumbler) of white wine leaving it boil 
a little more. When ready to serve remove the 
ham and the greens, rub the gray through a sieve 
and remove the superfluous fat. 



64 



85 

TENDERLOIN WITH MARSALA 
(Filetto al marsala) 

Roll a piece of the tenderloin, tie it and, if it 
is about two pounds, put it on the fire with a mid- 
dle-sized onion cut in thin slices, some thin slices 
of ham and a piece of butter, seasoning but mo- 
derately with salt and pepper. When it is brown- 
ed from all sides and the onion is consumed, 
sprinkle a pinch of flour, let this take color and 
then pour some soup stock or water. Make it 
simmer on a low fire, then rub the gravy through 
a sieve, skim off the fat and with this and half a 
small tumbler of Marsala or Sherry wine put it 
back on the fire to simmer again. Serve with the 
gravy neither too liquid nor too thick. 

The filet can also be larded with bacon and 
cooked in butter and Marsala only. 

86 

MEAT GENOVESE 
(Came alia Genovese) 

Take thick slices of good lean veal, weighing 
about a pound, beat it and flatten it well. Beat 
three or four eggs, season them with salt and 
pepper, a pinch of grated cheese and some chop- 
ped parsley. Fry the eggs in butter in the form 
of an omelet about the size of the meat over 

65 



which it will be laid, cutting it where it overlaps 
and putting the pieces where it lacks so as to 
cover the meat entirely. After that roll tight 
the meat together with the omelet and tie it with 
thread. Then sprinkle some flour over it and 
put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter, season- 
ing with salt and pepper. When it is well brown- 
ed on all sides, pour some soup stock to complete 
the cooking and serve it in its gravy which will 
be thick enough on account of the gravy. 

87 
RICE PUDDING WITH GIBLETS 

(Sfornato di riso con rigoglie) 

Make a good brown stock (see No. 13) and 
use the same for the rice as well as for the giblets. 
To these add some thin slices of ham and brown 
them first in butter, seasoned moderately with 
salt and pepper, completing the cooking with 
brown stock. A taste of mushrooms will be 
found useful. 

Brown the rice equally in butter, then complete 
the cooking with hot water. Drain and put the 
brown stock, adding grated cheese and two beat- 
en eggs, when the rice has cooled a little. 

Take a smooth mold, round or oval, grease it 
evenly with butter, cover the bottom with butter- 
ed paper and place in it the rice to harden it in 
the oven. When taken from the mold pour over 

66 



the gravy from the giblets, slighthly thickened 
with a pinch of flour and serve with the giblets 
around, seeing that there is plenty of gravy for 
them. 

88 
PUDDING GENOESE 

(Budino alia genovese) 

Chop together a slice of veal, some chicken 
breast and two slices of ham and then grind or bet- 
ter pound them, with a small piece of butter, a 
tablespoonful of grated cheese and a crumb of 
bread soaked with milk. Rub through a sieve 
and add three tablespoonfuls of Balsamella (see 
No. 54) which you will make thick enough for 
this dish, three eggs and just a taste of nutmeg, 
mixing everything well. 

Take a smooth mold, grease it evenly with 
butter and put on the bottom a sheet of paper, 
cut according to the shape of the bottom and 
equally greased with butter. Pour over the above 
ingredients and cook in a vessel immersed in boil- 
ing water (double boiler) . 

When taken from the mold, remove the paper 
and in its place put a gravy formed with chopped 
chicken giblets cooked in brown stock. Serve 
hot. 



67 



89 

LIVER LOAF 
(Pane di fegato) 

Cut about one pound of veal liver in thin 
slices and four chicken livers in two parts and 
put all this in a saucepan with rosemary and a 
piece of butter. When this is melted put in an- 
other piece and season with salt and pepper. After 
four or five minutes at a live fire, remove the 
liver (dry) and grind it together with the rose- 
mary. In the gravy that remains in the sauce- 
pan put a big crumb of bread, cut into small pie- 
ces and make a paste that will also be ground with 
the liver. Then rub everything through a sieve, 
add one whole egg and two yolks and a pinch of 
grated cheese, diluting with brown stock or water. 
Finally put in a smooth mold with a sheet of pa- 
per in the bottom, all evenly greased with butter 
and cook in a double boiler. Remove from the 
mold when cool and serve cold, with gelatine. 

90 

VEAL WITH TUNNY 
(Vitello tonnato) 

Take two pounds of meat without bones, re- 
move the fat and tendons, then lard it with two 
anchovies. These must be washed and boned 
and cut lengthwise, after opening them, making 

68 



in all eight pieces. Tie the piece of meat not 
very tight and boil it for an hour and a half in 
enough water to cover it completely. Previously 
put into the water one quarter of an onion lard- 
ed with clover, one leaf of laurel, celery, car- 
rot and parsley. Salt the water generously and 
don't put the veal in until it is boiling. When the 
veal is cooked, untie, dry it and keep it for two 
or three days in the following sauce in quantity 
sufficient to cover it. 

Grind |/4 pound tunny fish preserved in olive 
oil and two anchovies, crush them well with the 
blade of a knife and rub through a sieve adding 
good olive oil in abundance little by little, and 
squeeze in one whole lemon, so that the sauce 
should remain liquid. Finally mix in some ca- 
pers soaked in vinegar. 

Serve the veal cold, in thin slices, with the 
sauce. 

The stock of the veal can be rubbed through 
a sieve and used for risotto. 

91 

STUFFED ITALIAN SQUASH 
(Zucchini ripieni) 

For a description of the Zucchini see No. 32. 

To make the stuffed zucchini first cut them 
lengthwise in two halves and remove the interior 
pulp, leaving space enough for the filling. 

69 



Take some lean veal (quantity in proportion 
to the squashes) cut it into pieces and place it 
on the fire in a saucepan with a hash of onion, 
parsley, celery, carrot, a little corned beef cut in 
little pieces, a little oil, salt and pepper. Stir it 
often with a spoon and when the meat is brown 
pour in a cup of water and then another after a 
while. Then rub the gravy through a sieve and 
put it aside. 

Chop the cooked meat fine and grind it in the 
grinder and make a hash of it and one egg, a 
little grated cheese, a crumb of bread boiled in 
milk or in soup stock and just a taste of nutmeg. 
Put this hash inside each half squash and put 
them to brown in butter, completing the cooking 
with the gravy set aside. 

92 
STRING BEANS AND SQUASHES SAUTE' 

(Fagiolini e zucchini saute) 

Brown in butter some string beans, that have 
been previously half cooked in water and some 
raw squashes cut in cubes. Put the squashes in 
only when the butter is beginning to brown. Sea- 
son moderately with salt and butter and add some 
brown stock or good tomato sauce. 



70 



93 
STRING BEANS WITH EGG SAUCE 

(Fagiuolini in salsa d'uovo) 

Take less than a pound of string beans, cutting 
off the two points and removing all the strings, 
and then cook them partially in water moderately 
salted. Take them from the kettle, drain, and 
brown with butter, salt and pepper. Beat one 
yolk with a teaspoonful of flour and the juice of 
half a small lemon, dilute with half a cup of cold 
broth from which the fat has been removed and 
put this liquid on the fire in a small saucepan 
stirring continually. When the liquid has be- 
come, through the cooking, like a cream, pour it 
on the string beans that you will keep on the fire 
a little longer, with the sauce. The string beans so 
prepared can be served with boiled beef. 

94 
STRING BEANS IN MOLD 

(Sformato di fagiolini) 

Take one pound of string beans, seeing that 
they are quite tender. Cut off the ends and re- 
move the strings. Throw them into boiling water 
with a pinch of salt and when they are half cook- 
ed take them away and put them in cold water. If 
you have brown stock complete the cooking with 
this and with butter, otherwise brown a piece of 

71 



onion, some parsley, a piece of celery and olive 
oil. When the onion is browned put in the string 
beans and complete the cooking with a little water 
if necessary. 

Prepare a Balsamella sauce (No. 54) with a 
small piece of butter, half a teaspoonful of flour 
and half a cup of milk. With this, a tablespoon- 
ful of grated cheese and four beaten eggs bind 
the string beans when they are cold, mix and put 
in a mold, evenly greased with butter and the 
bottom covered with paper. Cook in a double 
boiler and serve hot. 

95 
CAULIFLOWER IN MOLD 

(Sformato di cavolnore) 

Take a good sized cauliflower, remove the 
stalk and outside leaves, half cook it in water 
and then cut it into small pieces. Salt them 
and put them to brown with a little piece of but- 
ter and then complete the cooking with a cup 
of milk. Then rub them through a sieve. Pre- 
pare a Balsamella (No. 54) and add it to the cauli- 
flower with 3 beaten eggs and a tablespoonful of 
grated cheese. 

Cook in a greased mold and serve hot. 



72 



96 

ARTICHOKES IN MOLD 
(Sformato di carciofi) 

Remove the outside leaves of the artichokes, 
the harder part of all leaves, and clean the stalks 
without removing them. 

Cut each artichoke into four parts and put 
them to boil in salt water for only five minutes. 
If left longer on the fire they become too 
soaked in water and lose their taste. Remove 
from the water, drain them, grind or pound and 
rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp so 
obtained with two or three beaten eggs, two or 
three tablespoonfuls of Balsamella (No. 54) 
grated cheese, salt and a taste of nutmeg, but 
taste the seasoning several times to see that it is 
correctly dosed. 

Place in a mold with brown stock or meat 
gravy (in that case use a mold with a hole) and 
cook in double boiler. 

97 

FRIED MUSHROOMS 
(Funghi fritti) 

Choose middle-sized mushrooms, which are 
also of the right ripeness: when they are too big 
they are too soft and if small they are too hard. 

Scrape the stems, wash them carefully but do 
not keep in water, for then they would lose their 

73 



pleasant odor. Then cut them in rather large 
slices and dip them in flour before putting in the 
frying pan. Olive oil is best for frying mushrooms 
and the seasoning is composed exclusively of salt 
and pepper to be applied when they are frying. 
They can also be dipped in beaten eggs after be- 
ing sprinkled with flour, but this is superfluous. 

98 

STEWED MUSHROOMS 

(Funghi in umido) 

For a stew the mushrooms ought to be below 
middle-size. Clean, wash and cut as for the pre- 
ceding. Put a saucepan on the fire with olive oil, 
one or two cloves of oil and some mint leaves. 
When the oil begins to splutter, put the mush- 
rooms in without dipping in flour, season with 
salt and pepper and when they are half cooked 
pour in some tomato sauce. Be sparing however, 
with the seasoning, in order that the mushrooms 
do not absorb it too much and so lose some of 
their own delicate flavor. 

99 

DRIED MUSHROOMS 

(Funghi secchi) 

Mushrooms are an excellent condiment of vari- 
ous dishes and for this reason it is well to have 
some always at hand. Since, however, it is not 

74 



always possible to have them fresh, the following 
recipe to prepare dried mushrooms will be found 
useful. 

First of all wait until there is a sunny day 
Choose young mushrooms middle sized or big, 
but not too soft. Scrape the stem, clean 
them well in order to remove the earth and, 
without washing cut them in big pieces. This 
because when dried they diminish considerably in 
size. Keep these pieces exposed in the sun for 
two or three days, then thread them on a string 
(practising a hole in them) and keep in a well 
ventilated room or in the sun until they become 
quite dry. Then put them away well closed in 
a paper bag, but don't fail to look at them from 
time to time to see if it is necessary to expose 
them some more to sun and ventilation. 

To use them soften in warm water, but keep 
them in as little as possible, so that they do 
not lose their delicate flavor. The best time to 
dry the mushrooms is June or July. 

100 
FRIED EGG-PLANTS 

(Melanzane fritte) 

Egg-plant or, as they are also called, mad-ap- 
ples are an excellent vegetable which may be 
used as dressing or as a dish by itself. Small or 
middle-sized egg-plants are to be preferred, as 

75 



the big ones have sometimes a slightly bitter 
taste. 

Remove the skin, cut into cubes, salt and leave 
them in a plate for a few hours. Then wipe them 
to remove the juice that they have thrown out, 
dip in flour and fry in oil. 

101 

STEWED EGG-PLANTS 
(Melanzane in umido) 

Remove the skin, cut them into cubes and place 
on the fire with a piece of butter. When this is 
all absorbed, complete the cooking with tomato 
sauce (No. 12). 

102 
EGG-PLANTS IN THE OVEN 

(Melanzane al forno) 

Skin five or six egg-plants, cut them in round 
slices and salt them so that they throw out the 
water that they contain. After a few hours dip 
in flour and frying oil. 

Take a fireproof vase or baking tin and place 
the slices in layers, with grated cheese between 
each layer, abundantly seasoned with tomato 
sauce (No. 12). 

Beat one egg with a pinch of salt, a tablespoon- 
ful of tomato sauce, a teaspoonful of grated 

76 



cheese and two of crumbs of bread, and cover the 
upper layer with this sauce. Put the vase in the 
oven and when the egg is coagulated, serve hot. 

103 
DRESSING OF CELERY 

(Sedano per contorno) 

The following are three ways to prepare cele- 
ry to be served as seasoning or seasoning for meat 
dishes. For the first two make the pieces about 
four inches long, and two inches for the third. 
The stalk must be skinned, cut crosswise and left 
attached to the rib of the celery. Boil it in water 
moderately salted not over five minutes and re- 
move dry. 

1 . Put the celery to brown in butter, then com- 
plete the cooking with brown stock (No. 13) 
and sprinkle with grated cheese when serving. 

2. Put in saucepan a piece of butter and a 
hash made with ham and a middle sized onion, 
chopped fine. Add two cloves and make it boil. 
When the onion is browned add soup stock or 
hot water with bouillon cubes and complete the 
cooking. Then rub everything through a sieve 
and put the gravy in a plate with the celery, sea- 
soning with pepper only, as the salt is already in 
the ham and serve with the gravy. 

3. Dip the celery in flour and in the paste for 
frying (No. 58) and fry in fat or oil. Or else 

77 



dip in flour and then in beaten egg, wrap in 
bread crumbs and fry. 

104 

ARTICHOKES WITH SAUCED 

(Carciofi in salsa) 

Remove the hard leaves of the artichokes, cut 
the points and skin the stalk. Divide each arti- 
choke into four parts or six if they are big, and 
put them on the fire with butter in proportion, 
seasoning with salt and pepper. Shake the sauce- 
pan to turn them and when they have absorbed a 
good part of the melted butter, pour in some broth 
to complete the cooking. Remove them dry, and 
in the gravy that remains put a pinch of chopped 
parsley, one or two teaspoonfuls of cheese grated 
fine, lemon juice, more salt and pepper if needed, 
and, mixing the whole, make it simmer for a 
while. Then remove the sauce from the fire and 
add one or two yolks of egg, according to the 
quantity and put back on the fire with more broth 
to make the sauce loose. Put the artichokes in 
the sauce this second time to heat them and serve 
especially as a side-dish for boiled meat. 

105 

STUFFED ARTICHOKES 
(Carciofi ripieni) 

Cut the stalk at the base, remove the small out- 
side leaves and wash the artichokes. Then cut 

78 



the top and open the internal leaves so that you 
can cut the bottom with a small knife and remove 
the hairy part if it is there. Keep aside the small 
interior leaves to put them with the stuffing. 
This, if to be used, for example, for six artichokes, 
must be composed of the above small leaves, J/g 
Ib. of ham more lean than fat, one fourth of a 
small onion, just a taste of garlic, some leaves of 
celery or parsley, a pinch of dry mushrooms, 
softened in water, a crumb of bread and a pinch of 
pepper, but no salt. 

First chop the ham, then grind everything to- 
gether and with the hash fill the artichokes, and 
put them to cook standing on their stalks in a 
saucepan with some oil, salt and pepper. Some 
prefer to give the artichokes a half cooking in 
water before stuffing it, but it is hardly advisable, 
because in this way they lose part of their special 
flavor. 

106 

ARTICHOKES STUFFED WITH MEAT 
(Carciofi ripieni di came) 

For six artichokes, make the following stuff- 



, 
]/4 Ib. lean veal. 

Two slices of ham, more fat than lean. 
The interior part of the artichokes. 
One fourth of onion (small). 
79 






Some leaves of parsley. 

One pinch of softened dried mushrooms. 

One small crumb of bread rolled and sifted. 

One pinch of grated cheese. 
When the artichokes have been browned with 
oil alone, pour a little water and cover with a 
moistened cloth kept in place by the cover. The 
steam that surrounds the artichokes cooks them 
better. 



107 

PEAS WITH ONION SAUCE 
(Piselli alia francese) 

The following recipe is good for one of fresh 
peas. Take two young onions, cut them in half, 
put some stems of parsley in the middle and tie 
them. Then put them into the fire with a piece of 
butter and when they are browned, pour over a 
cup of soup stock. Make it boil and when the 
onions are softened rub them through a sieve 
together with the gravy that you will then put 
on the fire with the peas and two whole hearts 
of lettuce. Season with salt and pepper and let it 
simmer. When the peas are half cooked add an- 
other piece of butter dipped in a scant table- 
spoonful of flour and pour in some broth, if ne- 
cessary. Before sending to the table put in two 
yolks of eggs dissolved in a little broth. 



80 



II 

The following recipe is simpler than the 
preceding, but not so delicate. Cut an onion in 
very thin slices and put it on the fire in a sauce- 
pan with a little butter. When it is well browned 
add a pinch of flour, mix and then add according 
to the quantity, a cup or two of soup stock or 
water with bouillon cubes and allow the flour to 
cook. Put in the peas, season with salt and pepper 
and add, when they are half cooked, one or two 
whole hearts of lettuce. Let it simmer, seeing 
that the gravy is not too thick. 

Before serving remove the lettuce. 

108 

PEAS WITH HAM 
(Piselli col prosciutto) 

Cut in two one or two young onions, accord- 
ing to the quantity of the peas and put them on 
the fire with oil and one thick slice of ham cut 
into small cubes. Brown until the ham is shri- 
velled ; then put the peas in, season with a pinch 
of pepper and very little salt, mix and complete 
the cooking with broth, adding a little butter. 

Before serving, throw the onion away. 



81 



109 

PEAS WITH CORNED BEEF 
(Piselli con la came secca) 

Put on the fire a hash of corned beef, garlic, 
parsley and oil, season with a little salt and pepper 
and when the garlic is browned, put the peas in. 
When they have absorbed the sauce, complete 
the cooking with broth or, failing that, with 
water. 

110 

STUFFED TOMATOES 
(Pomodori ripieni) 

Select ripe middle-sized tomatoes, cut them 
in two equal parts and scoop out the inside seeds. 
Season with salt and pepper and fill the tomatoes 
with the following hash, in such a way as to 
make the stuffing come over the edge of the 
half tomato: 

Make a hash with onion, parsley and celery, 
put it on the fire with a piece of butter and when 
it is browned, put in a small handful of dried 
mushrooms previously softened in water and 
chopped very fine: add a tablespoonful of bread 
crumbs soaked in milk, season with salt and pep- 
per and let the compound simmer, moistening 
with water if necessary. When you take from the 
fire add, when it is still lukewarm, grated cheese 

82 



and a beaten yolk (or two) of egg, but seeing 
that the compound does not become too liquid. 

When the tomatoes are filled, take them in 
the oven with a little butter and oil mixed to- 
gether and serve them as a side-dish for roast 
beef or steak. 

The stuffed tomatoes can be made simpler 
with a hash of garlic and parsley mixed with 
bread crumbs, salt and pepper and seasoned with 
oil when they are in the saucepan. 

Ill 

CAULIFLOWER WITH BALSAMELLA 

(Cavolnore colla balsamella) 

Remove from a good sized cauliflower the 
external leaves and the green ribs, make a deep 
cut crosswise in the stalk and cook it in salted 
water. Then cut it in sections and brown with 
butter, salt and pepper. Put it in a baking tin, 
throw over a small pinch of grated cheese, cover 
with the balsamella (No. 54) and brown the 
surface. 

Serve this cauliflower as an entremets or as 
a side-dish with boiled chicken or a stew. 

112 

STUFFED CABBAGE 
(Cavolo ripieno) 

Take a big cabbage, remove the hard outside 
leaves, cut the stem off even with the leaves 

83 



and give it half cooking in salt water. Put it up- 
side down to drain, then open the leaves one by 
one until the heart is exposed and on this put the 
stuffing. Bring up all the leaves, close them and 
tie with thread crosswise. 

The stuffing can be made with milk veal 
stewed alone, or with sweetbread or chicken 
liver, all chopped fine. To make it more delicate, 
add some balsamella (No 54) a pinch of grated 
cheese, one yolk of egg and a taste of nutmeg. 
Complete the cooking of the cabbage in the sau- 
ce of this stew, adding a little butter, on a low 
fire or in the oven kept low. 

Instead of filling the whole cabbage, the larger 
leaves may be filled one by one, rolling and ty- 
ing them. 

113 

SIDE-DISH OF SPINACH 
(Spinaci per contorno) 

After cooking the spinach in boiling water and 
chopping them fine, the spinach can be cooked 
in different ways: 

1 . With butter, salt and pepper, adding a little 
brown stock, if you have it, or a few tablespoon- 
fuls of broth, or milk. 

2. With onion sauce (onion chopped very 
fine) and butter. 

3. With butter salt and pepper, adding a very 
small pinch of grated cheese. 

84 



4. With butter, a drop of olive oil and tomato 
sauce (No. 12) or tomato paste diluted with 
soup stock or water. 

114 
ASPARAGUS 

(Sparagi) 

Asparagus can be prepared in many different 
ways, but the simplest and best is that of boil- 
ing them and serving them seasoned with olive 
oil and vinegar or lemon juice. However there 
are other ways as, for instance, the following: 
Put them whole to brown a little with the green 
part in butter and, after seasoning them with 
salt, pepper and a pinch of grated cheese, pour 
over the melted butter when it is browned. Or 
else divide the white from the green part and place 
them as follows in a fireproof plate: Dust the 
bottom with grated cheese and dispose over the 
points of the asparagus one near the other; 
season with salt, pepper, grated cheese and little 
pieces of butter. Make another layer of asparagus 
and, seasoning in the same way, continue until 
you have them. Be moderate in the seasoning. 
Cross the layers of asparagus like a trestle, put 
on the oven and keep until the seasoning, is 
melted. Serve hot. 

If you have some brown stock, parboil them 
first and complete the cooking with brown stock, 

85 



adding a little bust and dusting moderately with 
grated cheese. 

115 

FISH WITH BREAD CRUMBS 
(Pesce col pane grattato) 

This, which can also be served as a side-dish, is 
made especially when you have boiled fish of 
good quality left over. 

Cut it into little pieces, remove carefully all 
the bones, then put it in the balsamella (No. 54) 
and season with enough salt, grated cheese and 
some mushrooms chopped fine. If dried mush- 
rooms soften in water first. Then take a fire- 
proof plate, grease it evenly with butter and dust 
with bread crumbs ground fine; pour into it the 
fish prepared as above and cover with a thin 
layer of bread crumbs. Finally put over a piece 
of butter, brown in the oven and serve hot. 

116 

STEWED FISH CUTLETS 
(Pesce a taglio in umido) 

The fish that can be used for this dish are the 
tunny, the umber or grayling, the sword fish and 
any piece of fish of large size and good savor. 
A pound may be sufficient for four or five per- 
sons. 

86 



Remove the scales, clean and dry well, dip in 
flour and put to brown in a little oil. Remove dry, 
throw away the oil that remains and clean the 
saucepan. Make a hash, chopped very fine, with 
half a middle sized onion, a piece of white celery 
and a good pinch of parsley. Put this to brown 
on the fire with sufficient oil and season with 
salt, pepper and one whole clove. When it is 
browned put abundant tomato sauce (No 12) or 
tomato paste diluted in broth or water. Let it 
simmer for a while, then place the fish to complete 
the cooking, turning it over frequently. The fish 
must be served with this thick gravy that ought 
to be abundant. 

117 

WHITING WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE 
(Merluzzo alia Palermitana) 

Take one whiting, one pound or a little 
more, and trim all the fins, leaving the tail and 
the head. Split it to remove the bone, and season 
with a little salt and pepper. Turn it on the back, 
grease with oil, season with salt and pepper, dust 
with bread crumbs then lay it with two table- 
spoonfuls of oil on a fireproof plate or baking 
tin. 

Take three or four good sized anchovies, bone 
and clean them, chop them and put on the fire 
with two tablespoonfuls of oil, but do not allow 

87 



< r "1" ' 



it to boil. With this sauce cover the back of the 
fish and dust it all with bread crumbs, putting 
also some leaves of rosemary. Bake in the oven, 
allowing a little crust to form over, but see that 
it doesn't dry up, pouring over to this purpose 
more oil. Before removing from the tin squeeze 
half a lemon over. 

This dish can be served surrounded by little 
toast with caviar, or anchovies and butter. 

118 

STEWED EEL 
(Anguille in urnido) 

For this dish it is preferable to have good sized 
eels that must not be skinned, but cut in small 
pieces. 

Chop some onion and parsley, put it on the 
fire with oil, salt, and pepper, and when the onion 
is browned, add the pieces of eel. Wait until it 
has absorbed the taste of the onion sauce and then 
complete the cooking with tomato sauce (No. 
12). 

See that there is plenty of gravy and serve with 
little squares or diamonds of toast. 

119 

FFI.S WITH PEAS 
(Anguille coi piselli) 

Cook the eels as above with the onion sauce 
and when it is cooked remove it dry to cook the 

88 



green peas in the sauce. The pieces of eel should 
be put back in the sauce to be warmed. No 
tomato sauce is necessary here. 

120 
MUSSELS WITH EGG SAUCE 

(Arselle in salsa d'uovo) 

A good washing with fresh water is sufficient 
for mussels that do not have any sand to be 
cleaned away. Put them on the fire with a sauce 
of oil, garlic, parsley and a pinch of pepper. 
Shake them and keep the saucepan covered see- 
ing that they do not absorb all of the sauce. Take 
them out when they are open and prepare the 
following sauce: one or more yolks of egg, ac- 
cording to the quantity, lemon juice, one tea- 
spoonful of flour, broth and some of their own 
juice. Cook this sauce until it becomes a smooth 
cream and pour it on the mussels when they are 
served. 

121 

MUSSELS WITH TOMATO SAUCE 
(Arselle alia livornese) 

Chop fine half an onion and put it on the fire 
with oil and a pinch of pepper. When the onion 
begins to brown add a pinch of parsley chopped 
not very fine and after put in the mussels with 

89 



tomato sauce (No. 12) or tomato paste diluted 
in water. Shake them often and when they are 
open, put them over slices of toast prepared be- 
forehand and arranged on a plate. 

122 
CODFISH 

(Baccala) 

I 

Freshen and soak the codfish in cold water, 
changing the water two or three times, or, better, 
keeping it for some time in a vase under running 
cold water. Then cut it into pieces as large as the 
palm of the hand and dip them in flour until 
they are well covered. Then put a kettle or 
a saucepan on the fire with plenty of oil and 
two or three cloves of garlic, whole but a little 
crushed. When the garlic begins to brown 
put in the codfish and brown it on both sides, 
stirring it often, so that it doesn't burn. Salt is 
not necessary, or at least only a little after tast- 
ing, but a little pepper will not be amiss. Finally 
pour over some tomato sauce (No. 1 2) or tomato 
paste diluted in water, let it boil a little more and 
serve. 



90 



123 

II 

The following is another way to prepare the 
codfish, slightly different from the preceding. 
Cut the codfish as above, then put it as it is in 
saucepan with some olive oil. Spread over it a 
hash of garlic and parsley and season with a 
pinch of pepper, oil and little pieces of butter. 
Cook on a good fire and turn it with care, be- 
cause, not being sprinkled with flour, it breaks 
easily. When it is cooked, squeeze a lemon over 
and serve. 

124 

FRIED CODFISH 

(Baccala fritto) 

Place the codfish on the fire after washing 
as explained in No. 107 in a kettle with cold 
water and as salt, and as soon as the water boils, 
remove the codfish. 

After boiling cut it in little pieces and re- 
move all the bones. Sprinkle some flour and dip 
in a frying paste composed of water, flour and 
a little oil. Fry in oil and serve hot. 

125 
CODFISH CROQUETTES 

(Cotolette di baccala) 

Boil as explained above and, if the quantity 
is one pound or a little more put together two 

91 



anchovies and some parsley, chopping every- 
thing together very fine. Add some pepper, a 
tablespoonful of grated cheese, three or four 
tablespoonfuls of pap, composed of bread crumbs 
in large pieces, water and butter, and two eggs. 
Give the compound the form of several flat cut- 
lets,dip them in beaten egg and in ground bread 
crumbs. Fry in oil and serve with lemon, or to- 
mato sauce. 

126 

FRIED DOG-FISH 
(Palombo fritto) 

Cut the dogfish in slices, not very thick, and 
place it in a plate with beaten eggs somewhat 
salted. Leave for some hours until half an hour 
before frying, dip the slices in a mixture of bread 
crumbs, grated cheese, garlic and parsley chop- 
ped fine, salt and pepper. A clove of garlic is 
sufficient for one pound of fish. Fry in oil and 
serve with lemon. 

127 

STEWED DOG-FISH 
(Palombo in urnido) 

Cut the dog-fish in rather big pieces and then 
make a hash of garlic, parsley and very little 
onion. Put this hash on the fire with oil and 

92 



when it is sufficiently browned, put the pieces 
of dog-fish and season with salt and pepper. 
When the fish is cooked pour over some tomato 
sauce (No. 12), let this simmer for a while, then 
serve. 

128 
ROAST-BEEF 

(Arrosto) 

Although roast-beef is not an Italian dish, still 
it is prepared in a peculiar way by the Italians, 
and hence this recipe finds its place here. 

To obtain a good roast-beef not less than two 
pounds ought to be cooked on a strong fire. It 
ought to be covered with good olive oil and fin- 
ally with cup of soup stock which with the oil and 
the juice from the meat will form a rich gravy, 
Salt it only when it is half cooked and do it mo- 
derately, because the beef is already tasty by 
itself. 

Put it on the fire half an hour before the soup 
is served and the meal begins. This will be suf- 
ficient if the piece is not very big. To ascertain 
the cooking prick it in the bigger part with a thin 
larding-pin, but not often, in order not to allow 
too much juice to escape. The juice must neither 
be of the color of the blood nor too dark. 

If baked it is to be seasoned with salt, oil and 
a piece of butter, surrounded by raw potatoes 



peeled. Pour in the kettle a cup of broth or of 
water. If you do not like cold roast beef, cut it 
into slices and warm with butter and brown stock 
or tomato sauce. 

129 
ROAST VEAL 

(Arrosto di vitella) 

Choose for that milk veal that is to be found 
all the year round, although it is always better 
during the spring or summer. 

The piece or pieces of veal can be cooked in a 
saucepan, slightly larded with garlic and rose- 
mary, with oil, butter and a hash of corned beef, 
salt, pepper and tomato sauce. In the gravy fresh 
peas can be cooked. 

130 
POT ROAST 

(Arrosto morto) 

This can be done with all kinds of meats, but 
the best is milk veal. Take a good piece of the 
loins, roll it and tie with a string and put on the 
fire with good olive oil and butter, both in small 
quantity. Brown well from all sides, salt when 
half cooked and complete the cooking with a half 
cup of broth, seeing that little juice remains. If 
no broth is at hand, use tomato sauce, or tomato 

94 



paste diluted with water. Some corned beef chop- 
ped fine can also be added. 

131 

POT ROAST WITH GARLIC AND 
ROSEMARY 

(Arrosto morto colFodore dell'aglio e del 
ramerino) 

Cook the meat as above, but add a clove of 
garlic and one or two bunches of rosemary in 
the saucepan. When serving the roast rub the 
gravy through a sieve without pressing and sur- 
round the meat with potatoes or vegetables 
cooked apart. 

The leg of lamb comes very well in this way, 
baked in the oven. 

132 
BIRDS 

(Arrosto di uccelli) 

The best way to cook birds, and that nearly 
always used by the Italians, is roasted at the spit. 
They must be spitted with a small slice of bread 
between each bird. Also wrap each bird in very 
thin slices of bacon, in such a way that it can be 
spitted with this covering. Mind to slice the bacon 
almost as thin as paper. Pass some oil only 
once over when they begin to brown, using 

95 



a brush or a feather, and salt only once, mode- 
rately. 

Put on the fire when near to be served, other- 
wise they may get dry and lose much of their 
flavor. The cooking is rapidly done if on a good 
fire. 

133 
ROAST OF LAMB 

(Arrosto d'agnello) 

Take a leg of lamb and season it with salt, 
pepper, oil and a drop of vinegar. Pierce it here 
and there with the point of a knife and leave it 
like this for several hours. Also lard it with bay 
leaf or rosemary to be removed when serving. 
The leg of lamb can be baked or, as the Italians 
do, cooked at the spit. 

124 
LEG OF MUTTON 

(Cosciotto di castrato arrosto) 

Before cooking see that several days elapse 
after the animal has been butchered. This, natur- 
ally, according to the temperature. Beat it well 
with a wooden mallet, then skin and remove the 
middle bone, without spoiling the meat. Then tie 
it and give it a good fire at the beginning, cover- 
ing the fire when half cooked. Let it cook in its 

96 



own juice and in a cup of broth strained to re- 
move the fat ; nothing else. Salt when it is almost 
cooked, but see that it is neither too well done nor 
rare, just medium. Serve with its juice apart in 
a sauce. 

135 
ROAST OF HARE 

. (Arrosto di lepre) 

The part of the hare fitted for roast is the hind 
quarters, but the limbs of this game are covered 
with little skins that must be carefully removed, 
before cooking, without cutting the muscles. 

Before roasting keep it soaking for twelve or 
fourteen hours in a liquid prepared as follows: 
put on the fire in a kettle three tumblers of water 
with half a tumbler of vinegar or less in propor- 
tion with the piece to be cooked, three of four 
scallions chopped fine, one or two bay-leaves, a 
bunch of parsley, a little salt and a pinch of pep- 
per; make it boil for five or six minutes, cool 
and pour when cold over the hare. When you 
remove the latter from the liquid wipe it and lard 
it all with little pieces of good bacon. 

Cook on a low fire, salt it sufficiently and 
grease with cream and nothing else. Never use 
the liver of the hare which, it is said, is very indi- 
gestible. 



97 



136 
POT ROAST LARDED 

( Arrosto morto lardellato) 

Take a piece short and thick of beef or veal, 
quite tender and weighing about two pounds or 
a little more. Lard it with ham or bacon cut in 
little pieces. Tie with a string and put it in a 
stewpan with a piece of butter, one fourth of a 
middle-sized onion cut in two pieces, three or 
four ribs of celery half an inch thick and as many 
slices of carrot. Season with salt and pepper and 
when the meat begins to brown turning it of- 
ten pour over one cup of water and complete 
the cooking on a low fire, leaving it to absorb 
great part of the gravy. See, however, that it 
doesn't dry up and become black. When you 
send to the table strain the juice that has re- 
mained and pour it on the meat, that may be sur- 
rounded with potatoes cut in pieces or kept 
whole if small, previously browned in butter or 
oil. 

137 
PIGEON SURPRISE 

(Piccione a sorpresa) 

The pigeon (or chicken) must be opened and 
stuffed with a cutlet of milk veal. Of course this 
cutlet must be of proportionate size. Beat it well 

98 



to render it thinner and more tender, season with 
salt, pepper, a pinch of spices and little pieces of 
butter, roll it and put inside the pigeon sewing 
the opening. The liver and giblets of the pigeon 
can be cooked apart in brown stock or in butter, 
after being chopped. With the resulting gravy 
the cutlet can be smeared. In this way the diffe- 
rent flavor of the two qualities of meat is better 
amalgamated. 

138 

STUFFED BEEF CUTLET 
Braciuola di manzo ripiena) 

The ingredients for this dish are a slice of beef 
half an inch thick, weighing about one pound, 
half a pound or less of lean milk veal, two small 
slices of ham and two or three of tongue, one 
scant tablespooful of grated cheese, a piece of 
butter, two chicken livers, one egg, a crumb of 
bread as large as a closed fist. 

Make a hash with a small onion, a little celery, 
carrot and parsley, put it on the fire with the 
butter and when it is browned, place in the sauce- 
pan the veal cut in small pieces and the chicken 
livers, season with little salt and pepper and 
complete the cooking with a little broth. Remove 
the veal and chicken when cooked, and chop 
them fine. In the gravy that remains make a pap 
rather hard with the crumb of bread, moistening 

99 



with broth if necessary. Now mix the chopped 
meat, the pap, the eggs, the cheese, the ham and 
tongue cut in little pieces. When the stuffing is 
composed thus, dip the cutlet in water, in order to 
stretch it better, beat it with the back of the knife 
and flatten with its blades. Put the stuffing inside 
and roll up and tie tightly with a string crosswise. 
Roast or bake with oil and salt. 

139 

STUFFED CHICKEN 
(Polio ripieno) 

For a middle-sized fowl use the following in- 
gredients: two sausages, the liver and giblets of 
the fowl, eight or ten chestnuts well roasted, 
some pieces of mushrooms, a taste of nutmeg, 
one egg. If, instead of a fowl, it is a turkey, 
double the dose. 

Begin by giving the sausages and the giblets 
half a cooking, moistening them with a little broth 
if necessary. Season with a little salt and pepper 
on account of the sausages that already contain 
them. Remove them and in the gravy that re- 
mains put a crumb of bread, in order to obtain 
with a little broth two tablespoon fuls of thick 
pap. Skin the sausages, chop the chicken giblets 
and the giblets and grind everything together 
with the chestnuts, the egg and the pap; this is 
the stuffing with which the fowl is to be filled, 

100 



to be baked afterward. It is more tasty cold than 
hot, and it can also be cut better. 

140 

CHICKEN WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE 
(Polio al diavolo) 

This ought to be cooked with Cayenne pepper 
and served with a highly seasoned sauce, but not 
everybody likes that and a simpler way to cook 
the chicken "al diavolo" is the following: 

Take a young chicken, remove the neck and 
the legs, open it all in front and flatten it open 
as much as possible. Wash and wipe dry with a 
towel, then put it on the grill and when it begins 
to brown turn it. Grease it with melted butter or 
with oil, using a brush, and season with salt and 
pepper. The later may be Cayenne pepper for 
those who like it. Keep turning and greasing until 
it is all cooked. 

To prepare the sauce piquante that many like 
with chicken broiled in this way, put four table- 
spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and when it 
begins to brown add two tablespoonfuls of flour 
and stir until it is well browned, but do not let 
it burn. Draw to a cooler place on the range and 
slowly add two cupfuls of brown stock, stirring 
constantly, add salt and a dash of Cayenne and 
let simmer for ten minutes. In another saucepan 
boil four tablespoonfuls of vinegar one table- 

101 



spoonful of chopped onion, one teaspoonful of 
sugar rapidly for five minutes; then add it to the 
sauce and at the same time add one tablespoonful 
of chopped capers two tablespoonfuls of chop- 
ped pickle and one teaspooful of tarragon vine- 
gar. Stir well and let cook for two minutes to 
heat the pickles. If the sauce becomes too thick 
dilute it with a little water. 

This sauce is excellent for baked fish and all 
roasts and boiled meats, besides being a fitting 
condiment for the chicken "al diavolo". 

141 

CHICKEN WITH HAM 
(Polio in porchetta) 

Fill a chicken with thin strips of ham, about 
half an inch wide. Add three cloves (or sections) 
of garlic, two little bunches of fennel and a few 
grains of pepper. Season outside with salt and 
pepper and cook in a saucepan with butter, or 
preferably bake in the oven. Sausages cut length- 
wise and previously skinned can be substituted 
for the ham. 

142 

CHICKEN SAUTE' 
(Polio saltato) 

Take a young chicken, remove the neck and 
trim the wings. Cut away the legs. Cut the chic- 

102 



ken into six pieces. Remove some of the bones. 
Beat an egg with a teaspoonful of water and 
place in it the pieces of chicken after dipping 
them in flour and seasoning generously with salt 
and pepper. Leave the pieces in the egg until it 
is time for cooking. Then take the pieces one by 
one, sprinkle with bread crumbs and place a 
saucepan with a good piece of butter on the fire. 
When the butter begins to brown put in the 
pieces of chicken from the side of the skin, then 
turn them when browned to the other side. Let 
them on a good fire for about ten minutes. Serve 
with lemon. The chicken prepared in this way is 
good also when cold. 

143 
AFRICAN HEN 

(Gallina di Faraone) 

This fowl, that resembles the partridge, should 
not be too fresh, like all game. 

The best way to cook the African hen is roast- 
ed at the spit. Put in the inside a ball of butter 
dipped in salt and wrap it in a piece of paper 
greased with butter and sprinkled with salt. This 
paper must be removed when the fowl is nearly 
cooked, and then the cooking is completed greas- 
ing with more butter and adding more salt. 



103 



144 
TAME DUCK ROASTED 

(Anatra domestic* arrosto) 

Salt it inside and bandage all the breast with 
slices of bacon, large and thin. Grease with oil 
and salt moderately when the cooking is almost 
complete. If you have a wild duck grease with 
butter, as the meat is drier. 

145 
TURKEY 

(Tacchino) 

The turkey has been imported to Europe from 
America, but it is nevertheless a well known dish 
in Italian families, although not enjoying the po- 
pularity that it has on this side of the ocean. 
When roasted it is generally larded moderately 
with little pieces of garlic and bay-leaf or rose- 
mary and seasoned with a hash of corned beef or 
bacon, a little butter, salt and pepper, tomato 
sauce or tomato paste diluted in water. The 
breast, flattened ( until it is about half an inch 
thick and seasoned generously some hours before 
cooking with oil, salt and pepper, is excellent 
broiled on the grill. 



104 



146 
LOIN OF PORK ROASTED 

(Lombo di maiale arrosto) 

The loin of pork, cut in little pieces forms an 
excellent roast at the spit. The pieces of pork are 
to be divided by little pieces of toast and greased 
with oil. 

If the pork is to be baked, choose that piece 
of the loin that has its ribs and that may weigh 
six or eight pounds. Lard it with garlic, rose- 
mary or bay leaf and a few cloves, but modera- 
tely, and season with salt and pepper. 

This roast is very popoular in Italy, where they 
call it arista. 

147 
LEG OF LAMB 

(Agnello aiPOrientale) 

This is a way to cook lamb in use in the Orient 
and adopted by the Italians, especially in South- 
ern Italy. The leg of lamb is to be larded with 
the larding pin with slices of bacon seasoned with 
salt and pepper, greased with butter or milk, or 
milk alone and salted when half cooked. 

The Arabs, who are very fond of this dish, do 
not lard it, as pork is forbidden by their religion, 
but cook it with an abundance of milk. 



105 



148 
BROILED PIGEON 

(Piccioue in gratella) 

Take a young, but fat pigeon, divide it in two 
parts lengthwise and flatten' it well 'with the 
hands. Then put it to brown in oil for four or 
five minutes, just to harden the meat. Season 
when still hot with salt and pepper, then arrange 
it as follows. 

Melt in the fire, without boiling it, a piece of 
butter and mix the liquid butter with one beaten 
egg. Dip the pigeon in the butter and egg and 
keep it until it absorbs them. Then sprinkle with 
bread crumbs ground fine. Cook on a grill on a 
a low fire and serve with a sauce or a side dish. 

149 
STEAK IN THE SAUCEPAN 

(Bistecca nel tegame) 

If you have a steak that does not appear to 
be too tender, put it in a saucepan with a little 
piece of butter and some good olive oil, with a 
taste of garlic and bay-leaf or rosemary. Add, 
if necessary, a little broth or water or tomato 
sauce and serve with potatoes cooked in the 
gravy that can be made more abundant with 
more broth, butter and tomato sauce. 



106 



150 
VEAL KIDNEY WITH ANCHOVY 

(Rognone alle acciughe) 

Take a veal kidney, remove the fat, cut it 
open and cover with boiling water. When the 
water has cooled, remove the kidney, wipe with 
a cloth, and pass through it clean sticks to make 
it stay open. Season with melted butter, salt and 
pepper and leave it so prepared for an hour or 
two. 

Then take another piece of butter and two or 
three anchovies. Clean the latter, chop and mix 
with the butter with the blade of a knife, making 
a ball. Cook the kidney on the grill, but not too 
much, in order to keep it tender, put it on a plate 
and grease when hot with the ball of butter and 
anchovies. 

151 

VEAL KIDNEY SLICED 
(Rognone di vitello affettato) 

Cut in thin slices one or two veal kidneys, 
removing the granulous part that is to be found 
in the middle, and put the slices in a saucepan 
with a piece of butter, a bunch of parsley chop- 
ped very fine together with a clove of garlic. Add 
a cup of hot broth ; salt moderately and let it cook 
without boiling, until the sauce is reduced to 
about one third. 

One tablespoonful of vinegar adds a pleasant 
taste to this dish. 

107 



152 
BROILED MUTTON KIDNEY 

(Rognone di montone alia graticola) 

After washing the kidneys, remove the filmy 
skin that covers them and cut them in the middle 
without, however, detaching campletely the two 
parts. Season with salt and pepper, grease with 
oil and put them on a strong fire on the grill. After 
ten or twelve minutes they will be broiled. Serve 
hot with parsley and slices of lemon. 

153 

MUTTON KIDNEY FRIED 
(Granelli di montone fritti) 
Wash, remove the skin that covers the kidneys 
and cut in very thin slices. Wipe with a cloth, dip 
first in ground bread crumbs, then in a beaten egg 
mixed with melted butter, then again in the bread 
crumbs. This must be done rapidly, at the time 
of frying, otherwise the bread crumbs absorb the 
moisture of the kidney and make them too hard. 
Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan on a strong 
fire and when it begins to brown, dip the slices 
of kidney. Turn often, sprinkle with a little par- 
sley chopped fine, salt and serve with lemon. 

154 
BEEF TONGUE BOILED 

(Lingua di bue lessa) 

The tongue is boiled like the beef. When half 
cooked remove the skin, which is not nice to see 

108 



and has no nutrituous elements, although it is 
is served with a puree of peas, or spinach or po- 
tatoes or beans, etc. But it can be served simply 
with sprigs of parsley. 

155 
BEEF TONGUE WITH OLIVES 

(Lingua di hue alle olive) 
Scald the tongue and peel off the skin. Then 
put it back to boil until fully cooked. 

Melt a piece of butter and brown half a me- 
dium sized onion cut in slices. When the onion 
is browned remove it from the butter and dilute 
in the latter a teaspoonful of flour. When the 
flour begins to brown, thin it with one or two 
cups of soup stock hot and passed through a sie- 
ve. Mix and boil for ten minutes, seasoning with 
salt and pepper. 

When the sauce is prepared place the tongue 
in the saucepan containing it and let it cook again 
on a low fire for about an hour, turning it over 
frequently and keeping it moistened with the 
gravy. Cut some olives in a spiral to remove the 
stone and place it in the saucepan with the ton- 
gue. This becomes more tasty if left with the oli- 
ves for one or two days. 

156 

STEWED BEEF TONGUE 
(Lingua di bue in stufato) 

Clean a fresh tongue of beef; put it in a plate, 
109 



salt it generously and put it back in the ice-box 
or in the pantry, until the following day. 

After twenty-four hours, scald it in boiling 
water, skin and lard with little pieces of bacon 
and put it in a kettle or a large saucepan in which 
the seasoning is already placed. This seasoning 
consists of |/2 lb bacon cut in very thin slices, 
j/4 lb. butter, one or two thin slices of ham and 
two middle sized onions, sliced. Sprinkle the ton- 
gue with flour, surround it with chopped meat 
and place the saucepan on the fire. When the 
tongue begins to brown, pour five or six cups of 
soup stock and one cup of water. Add the usual 
bunch of greens, two or three cloves, salt, a pinch 
of pepper and one of cinnamon. 

Cover the saucepan tightly, boil for about four 
hours, rub the sauce through a sieve and serve 
everything hot. 

157 

VEAL SWEETBREADS 
(Animelle di vitello) 

Keep in fresh water for an hour. Then place 
them in a skimmer (ladle with holes) and dip in 
boiling water or broth. After a brief boiling re- 
move and cool in cold water. Then remove the 
veins and gullet, taking care not to tear them. 
The sweetbreads are prepared in various ways 
and here we give some of the best known : 

Sweetbreads with butter. Boil in broth or 
110 



water, clean and cut into slices. Brown a piece 
of butter with salt and pepper. Then place the 
sliced sweetbreads and brown them. Before serv- 
ing squeeze on a little lemon juice. The sweet- 
breads prepared in this way are served preferably 
with rice or vegetables. 

Sweetbreads with white sauce. Boiled, 
cleaned and cut into slices, they are placed in 
white sauce or balsamella (No. 54) adding a 
taste of nutmeg, pepper, salt and the juice of half 
a lemon. 

Sweetbreads in fricassee. Boil, trim and cut 
into pieces. Then brown in butter with a scallion 
chopped fine. Once browned, remove from the 
gravy in which pour a tablespoonful of flour, 
moistened with broth. The sauce that results is 
bound with egg-yolks and lemon juice. 

Sweetbreads fried. Boil and trim. Then cut 
in large slices, neither too thick nor too thin. Dip 
in beaten egg and in bread crumbs ground. Then 
fry in butter. Serve with vegetables. 

158 

TENDERLOIN WITH SPICES 
(Filetto alia piemontese) 

Clean and trim the meat, removing all the little 
skins. Then sprinkle with nutmeg, cinnamon, 
salt, and pepper, and place in an earthen vase 
covered, together with a bunch of aromatic herbs, 
sage, parsley, rosemary, onion, carrot and celery, 
all chopped fine. After a few hours melt and 

111 



brown a piece of butter with the aromatic herbs, 
then remove the latter and place the tenderloin, 
leaving it to simmer for half an hour, pricking it 
often with a large fork or a larding pin, to add 
its juice to the gravy. Serve hot. 

159 
STUFFED ONIONS 

(Cipolle ripiene) 

Boil six large onions for an hour. Then drain 
and skin. Remove the heart with the point of a 
knife. In the place of the heart place the stuffing 
made with J/4 lb. of ham or tongue, chopped and 
mixed with bread crumbs ground, two table- 
spoonfuls of milk, two pinches of salt and one of 
pepper. When the onions are prepared and stuf- 
fed place them in a saucepan whose bottom has 
been greased with butter, sprinkle with bread 
crumbs ground and place in the oven, not too 
hot. At the time of serving add some white sauce 
or balsamella (No 54). Stuffed onions are served 
as vegetables, or side-dish with roast-beef or 
boiled-beef. 

160 

STEWED ONIONS 
(Cipolle in stufato) 

Keep in cold water, for half an hour, two 
pounds of middle-sized onions. Afterward skin 
and place in a saucepan in which pour as much 
broth as is necessary to cover them. Let them 

112 



cook on a low fire for an hour, if they are seal- 
lions, or young onions. If they are not, two hours 
are not enough, sometimes. 

When cooked and soft, drain and place in a 
large deep dish. Brown a piece of butter with a 
tablespoonful of flour, a cup of broth, salt and 
pepper. Mix everything and when it begins to 
boil pour the sauce on the onions, which must be 
served hot. 

161 
VEAL LIVER 

(Fegato di vitella alia veneziana) 

Brown a large onion cut in thin slices in oil 
and place in the saucepan the liver cut in thin 
slices. Brown everything on a strong fire. When 
the liver takes a reddish color it is ready. If it is 
overdone, it becomes too hard. Salt just before 
removing from the saucepan. 

162 

FRIED LIVER 
(Fegato al tegame) 

Clean and trim the liver, then cut in slices half 
an inch thick. Dip in flour and place, without 
delay in a saucepan in which a small onion has 
been browned in butter. Salt just before serving. 

163 
POLENTA WITH SAUSAGES 

(Polenta colic salsicce) 

The polenta is a very popular dish in Northern 
113 



Italy and can be prepared in various ways. Al- 
ways, however, it is better to serve with the addi- 
tion of sausages, or with birds or tomato paste. 

The polenta is practically corn-meal and it is 
made with the so-called farina gialla or yellow 
flour. 

The ingredients for a good polenta are one 
pound of corn meal, preferably granulous, one 
quart and a half of water, salted in proportion, 
one piece of butter, one cup and a half of milk. 

Pour the meal little by little into boiling water, 
continually stirring with a wooden spoon. When 
the meal is half cooked, put the butter and pour 
the milk little by little. While the polenta boils, 
place on the fire in a little saucepan a tablespoon- 
ful of olive oil or a small piece of butter. When 
the oil is hot or the butter is melted, put some 
sausages repeatedly pricked with a fork. 

When the sausages are cooked, pour the po- 
lenta hot in a dish and place the sausages and 
the gravy in a cavity practised in the middle. 
Serve hot. 

In cooking the sausages two or three bay- 
leaves may be added and removed before serving. 

164 
SAUSAGES WITH ONIONS 

(Salsicce alia cipollata) 

The salsicce alia cipollata are prepared with 
fresh and lean pork meat and bacon in equal 
quantity, chopped fine and seasoned with salt, 

114 



pepper and spices. Add a proportional quantity 
of onions chopped very fine, not too much, how- 
ever. Fill with the hash the prepared entrails, 
tie every two inches to divide the sausages. 

CELERY 

(Sedano) 

Beside being used as a condiment with a great 
quantity of dishes, the celery may be prepared 
in various different ways to form appetizing ve- 
getable dishes. We give here a certain number of 
those that appear most commonly on Italian 
tables: 

165 

CELERY WITH BUTTER 
(Sedano al burro) 

Two heads of celery for each pergon. 

Clean and trim, removing the sprigs that are 
too hard, and the leaves, that are to be cut where 
they begin to be green. Finally trim the stem. 
Then wash repeatedly in running water, drain 
and put to boil in salted boiling water. Remove 
when cooked and drain again. 

About three quarters of an hour before serv- 
ing, melt a piece of butter in a saucepan and 
brown the celery, turning them often for about 
ten minutes. After that pour over hot stock 
(soup stock or chicken broth) cover the saucepan 
and parboil. A few moments before serving sea- 
son with brown stock, if you have any at hand, 
otherwise with salt and pepper only. 

115 



166 
CELERY AU JUS 

(Sedano al sugo) 

Select nine or ten heads, neither too hard nor 
too soft, and cut them about four inches from 
the root. Remove the green and hard branches 
and trim the root, cutting the latter to a point. 
Scald the celery, after washing well, in salted 
boiling water. Ten minutes will be sufficient. Dip 
in cold water, open well -the leaves and wash 
again carefully. Drain and make bunches of two 
or three heads each that you will put in a sauce- 
pan with a pint of broth or water and half a cup 
of good fat, onion and carrot chopped, salt and 
pepper. Cover and let it simmer for about two 
hour. Then remove the celery, drain and serve. 

167 

SAUCE FOR CELERY AU JUS 
(Salsa per sedani al sugo) 

The celery, prepared as above, are seasoned 
with the following sauce: Make a roux melting 
a piece of butter and browning an equal weight 
of flour; stir for about three minutes on the fire, 
after which thin the roux with a little brown 
stock or with bouillon cubes diluted in water. 
Continue stirring and reduce the sauce. Then rub 
through a sieve, pour over the celery and serve 
very hot. 

116 



168 

FRIED CELERY 
(Sedani fritti) 

This is a convenient way to prepare left-over 
celery that is still too good to be thrown away. 

Clean the left-over celery removing as best 
you can the sauce in which they were served, dip 
in frying paste (flour and egg) fry and serve with 
lemon. 

169 

PUREE OF CELERY 
(Macco di sedani) 

Take some big roots of celery, prepare as 
usual and wash in running water. Boil in salted 
water, crush and rub through a sieve. Put in a 
saucepan this puree, with a piece of butter, salt, 
flour and a little cream or milk. The milk may be 
substituted with good soup stock or brown stock. 
Just before serving add a little powdered sugar. 

170 

STEW 

(Stufato) 

The Italian stufato is somewhat different from 
the stewed meat that is known under the name 
of "Irish stew". It corresponds to the French 
daube and is prepared in Italy in many different 
ways. 

An excellent stufato can be made in the fol- 
lowing way: Chop fine two bunches of parsley, 

117 



a small carrot, half a medium sized onion, a little 
piece of seallion and two bay-leaves. Brown with 
a good piece of butter in a saucepan in which one 
and a half tablespoonful of oil have been pre- 
viously poured. 

The meat must have been prepared before- 
hand, that is to say washed, trimmed and larded. 
When half cooked, season moderately with salt 
and pepper. If necessary, moisten with broth or 
water. During the cooking the saucepan must be 
covered with its cover and with a sheet of paper 
greased with fat or oil. The stufato will be ready 
after about three hours' cooking on a low fire. 

171 

SOUTHERN STEW 
(Stufato Meridionale) 

Put the piece of meat in a saucepan of such a 
size that it remains completely filled, moisten 
with two cups of water and two of white wine, 
season with salt and pepper and cook for five 
hours on a low fire. 

172 

STEW MILANAISE 
(Stufato alia milanese) 

Beat and flatten a good piece of meat and lard 
with bacon or ham cut in small pieces. Season 
with salt, pepper and a taste of cinnamon. Sprin- 
kle flour over the meat. 

Place in a saucepan a little fat of beef chopped 

118 



with a middle sized onion and brown with a piece 
of butter. When the onion is browned, remove it 
and place the meat over the melted butter. Brown 
with melted butter. Then fill the saucepan with 
half water, half red wine, but only when the 
meat is browned from all sides. Cover the sauce- 
pan the best you can, with cover and greased pa- 
per and let it simmer for five or six hours on a 
very low fire. 

After removing the stew, let it cool, rub the 
gravy through a sieve, put again on the fire and 
serve hot. 

173 

FRENCH STEW 
(Stufato alia francese) 

Prepare on the bottom of the saucepan a layer 
of thin slices of ham, on which place several little 
cubes also of bacon. In the middle place a bunch 
of parsley, and around this some cloves, half an 
onion sliced, a few carrots in little cubes several 
young onions, bay-leaf, salt, and pepper. 

On this bed lay the meat that may be larded 
with bacon or ham and seasoned with salt, pepper 
and a taste of cinnamon. Pour on the meat two 
cups of soup stock or water and one cup of white 
wine. Cover the saucepan hermetically and cook 
on a very low fire for five hours. 

When the stufato is to be served cold, the 
119 



gravy is to be rubbed through a sieve before it 

gets cold. 

Note. In these and similar dishes we have in- 
dicated the use of wine, which is a common 
ingredient, in small quantities in Italian and 
French cooking. This, however, can always 
be dispensed with if its taste is not appre- 
ciated, or for any other reason. 

174 

TROUT ALPINE 
(Trota all'alpigiana) 

These are many ways to prepare this delicious 
fish, found in abundance in the many streams of 
clear water that run from the Alps and the A- 
pennine mountains. Often the trout is cooked in 
wine, but, of course, this part many be changed. 

For the trota all'alpigiana, so called because it 
is the favorite dish of Piedmont, the trout must be 
cleaned, scaled, washed, wiped then salted and 
left under the action of the salt for about an hour. 

Pour in a fish-kettle one quart of white wine 
to which will be added three medium sized onions 
a few cloves, two sections of garlic and a little 
bunch made of thyme, bay-leaf, basil or mint ; fin- 
ally a piece of butter as large as an egg, dipped 
in flour. Then put the trout in the fish-kettle and 
place on a strong fire. When the liquid has boiled 
the trout is cooked. Remove the onions and the 
bunch of greens and serve the trout with its gravy 
and some parsley. 

120 



175 

TROUT LOMBARD 
(Trota fritta) 

Clean, scale, wash and wipe the trout. Salt and 
leave for half an hour. Fill with water half a fish- 
kettle; add half a lemon, two bay-leaves, one 
carrot light or ten berries of pepper, one onion 
divided into four parts, salt and three cloves. 
When the water is lukewarm, dip in the trout. 
Cook on a moderate fire and serve the trout with 
parsley, slices of lemon and young potatoes 
boiled. A good fish-sauce ought to accompany it. 

176 

FRIED TROUT 
(Trota fritta) 

Small and young trouts are best for frying. 
Scale, clean, wash and wipe. Then dip in flour 
and fry like the other fish in oil or in butter. Serve 
with browned parsley and lemon. 

177 
TROUT WITH ANCHOVIES 

(Trota alle acciughe) 

Scale, clean wash and wipe the trouts. Cut the 
sides and place to pickle with salt, pepper berries, 
garlic, parsley and onions chopped fine; with 
mushrooms chopped fine with thyme, bay-leaf 
and mint, all seasoned with good olive oil. Rub 
the pickled pieces at the sieve and place it and the 

121 



trout in a baking-tin. Bake in the oven and serve 
with anchovy sauce (No. 17). 

178 
EGGS WITH ONION SAUCE 

(Uova trippate) 

Prepare some hard boiled eggs, shell and cut 
into disks one third of an inch thick. 

Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter in which 
brown half an onion cut into thin slices, to 
be removed from the butter when browned. 
Then add to the butter two teaspoonfuls of flour, 
mix but don't allow to brown, thin with a cup of 
hot broth, add salt and pepper and let simmer for 
ten minutes. Put the sliced eggs in the sauce to 
warm them, stir a little, but carefully to avoid 
breaking them, and do not boil again. Just before 
serving add to the sauce a teaspoonful of cream 
and stir carefully. 

179 
EGGS WITH HAM 

(Uova al prosciutto) 

Place in a frying pan as many pieces of butter, 
large like a nut, as there are eggs to be cooked. 
For each piece of butter put a little slice of ham 
and place the frying pan on the fire. As soon as 
the butter is melted break an egg on each slice of 
ham. Let cook for ten minutes on a moderate fire. 

122 




(Uova al pomidoro) 

Prepare some hard boiled eggs, cut them 
through the middle lengthwise, place in good or- 
der upon a plate and pour some good tomato 
sauce, taking care not to cover the upper part of 
the eggs, which must emerge from the sauce. 

Instead of the tomato, the eggs may be arran- 
ged with a balsamella sauce (No. 54). 

181 
SCRAMBLED EGGS 

(Uova strapazzate) 

Break the eggs in a plate, assuring first that 
they are all fresh. 

Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter about as 
big as an egg. When it is melted pour the egg and 
scramble them with a fork on a low fire. 

When the eggs are cooked season moderately 
with salt and butter. Just when you take them 
away from the fire and before serving add a ta j 
blespoonful of milk or liquid cream. Serve hot 
with a little grated cheese. 

The scrambled eggs can be served with points 
of asparagus, truffles, mushrooms, etc. which are 
prepared just as if they were to go in an omelet. 



123 



PART II 

PASTRY, SWEETS, FROZEN DELICACIES, 
SYRUPS 



182 

PUDDING OF HAZELNUTS 
(Budino di nocciuole) 

Shell half a pound of hazelnuts in warm water 
and dry them well at the sun or on the fire, then 
grind them very fine, together with sugar, of a 
weight somewhat less than the nuts. Put one 
quart of milk on the fire, and when it begins to 
boil, put two third Ib. lady fingers or macaroons 
crumbed and let it boil for five minutes, adding 
a small piece of butter. Rub everything through 
a sieve and put back on the fire with the nuts to 
dissolve the sugar. Let it cool and add six eggs, 
first the yolks, then the white beaten, pour in a 
mold greased with butter and sprinkled with 
bread crumbs ground fine. The mold must not 
be all full. Bake in the oven and serve cold. 

This dose will be sufficient for eight or ten 
persons. 

183 

CRISP BISCUITS 
(Biscotti croccanti) 

One pound of flour. 
Half a pound granulated sugar. 
'/4 Ib. sweet almonds, whole and shelled, mixed 
to a few pine-seeds. 
124 



A piece of butter, one and a half ounce. 

A pinch of anise-seeds. 

Five eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

Leave back the almonds and pine-seeds to add 
them afterward, and mix everything with four 
eggs, so as to use the fifth if it is necessary to 
make a soft dough. Divide into four cakes half 
an inch thick and as large as a hand, place them 
in a receptacle greased with butter and sprinkled 
with flour. Glaze the cakes with yolk of eggs. 
Bake in the oven, but only as much as will still 
permit cutting the cakes into slices, which you 
will do the day after, as the crust will then be 
softened. Put the slices back in the oven ,so that 
they will be toasted on both sides and you will 
have the crisp biscuits. 

184 

SOFT BISCUITS 
(Biscotti teneri) 

For these biscuits it would be necessary to have 
a tin box about four inches wide and a little less 
long than the oven used. In this way the biscuits 
will have a corner on both sides and, if cut a little 
more than half an inch, they will be of the right 
proportion. The ingredients needed are: 

Flour, about two ounces. 

Potato meal, a little less. 

Sugar, four ounces (]/4 Ib.) 

125 



Sweet almonds 1 Yl ounce. 

Candied orange or angelica, one ounce. 

Fruit preserve, one ounce, 

Three eggs. 

Skin the almonds, cut them in half lengthwise 
and dry in the sun or at the fire. Pastry cooks 
usually leave them with the skin but it is much 
preferable to skin them. Cut in little cubes the 
candied fruits and the preserve. 

Stir for a long while, about half an hour the 
sugar in the egg-yolks and a little flour then add 
the white of the eggs well beaten and when every 
thing is well beaten add the flour, letting it fall 
from a sieve. Mix slowly and scatter on the mix- 
ing the almonds and the cubes of candied and 
preserved fruit. Grease and sprinkle the tin box 
with flour. Bake in the oven and cut the biscuits 
the day after. If desired these can also be roasted 
on both sides. 

185 

BISCUITS SULTAN 
(Biscotto alia sultana) 

Granulated sugar, six ounces. 
Flour, four ounces. 
Potato meal, two ounces. 
Currants, three ounces. 
Candied fruits, one ounce. 
Five eggs. 

A taste of lemon peel. 
Two tablespoonfuls of brandy. 
126 



Put first on the fire the currants and the can- 
died fruits cut in very little cubes with as much 
brandy or cognac as is necessary to cover them: 
when it boils, light the brandy and let it burn 
out of the fire until the liquor is all consumed: 
then remove the currants and candy and let them 
dry in a folded napkin. Then stir for half an hour 
the sugar with the egg-yolks and the taste of le- 
mon peel. Beat well the white of the eggs and 
pour them on the sugar and yolks. Add the flour 
and potato meal letting them fall from a sieve 
and stir slowly until everything is well mixed 
together. Add the currants and the pieces of 
candied fruits and pour the mixing in a smooth 
mold or in a high and round cake-dish. Grease the 
mold or the dish with butter and sprinkle with 
powdered sugar or flour. Put at once in the oven 
to avoid that the currants and the candied fruits 
fall in the oven. 

186 

MARGHERITA CAKE 

(Pasta Margherita) 

Potato meal, three ounces. 

Sugar, six ounces. 

Four eggs. 

Lemon juice. 

Beat well the egg-yolks with the sugar, add 
the potato meal and the lemon juice and stir 
everything for half an hour. Finally beat well 

127 



the whites, and mix the rest, stirring continually 
but slowly. Pour the mixture in a smooth and 
round mold, greased with butter and sprinkled 
with powdered sugar. Put at once in the oven. 

Remove from the mold when cold and dust 
with powdered sugar and vanilla. 

187 

MANTUA TART 
(Tort a Mantovana) 

Flour, six ounces. 

Sugar, six ounces. 

Butter, five ounces. 

Sweet almonds and pine-seeds, two ounces. 

One whole egg. 

Four egg-yolks. 

A taste of lemon peel. 

First work well with a ladle the eggs with the 
sugar, then pour the flour little by little, still stirr- 
ing, and finally the butter, previously melted in 
a double steamer (bain-marie). Put the mixture 
in a pie-dish greased with butter and sprinkled 
with flour or bread crumbs ground. On top put 
the almonds and the pine-seeds. Cut the latter in 
half and cut the almonds, previously skinned in 
warm water, each in eight or ten pieces. This tart 
must not be thicker than one inch, so that it can 
dry well in the oven, which must not be too hot. 

Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve cold. 



128 



188 
CURLY TART 

(Torta ricciolina) 

Sweet almonds with a few bitter ones, four 
ounces, 

Granulated sugar, six ounces, 

Candied fruits or angelica, 2J/2 ounces, 

Butter, two ounces, 

Lemon peel. 

Mix two eggs with flour, flatten the paste to a 
thin sheet on a bread board and cut into thin 
noodles. In a corner of the bread board make a 
heap of the almonds with the sugar, the candied 
fruit cut in pieces and the grated lemon peel. All 
this cut and crush so as to reduce the mixture in 
little pieces. Then take a pie-dish and without 
greasing it, spread a layer of noodles on the bot- 
tom, then pour part of the mixture, then another 
layer of noodles and continue until there remains 
no more material, trying to have the tart at least 
one inch thick. When it is so prepared cover with 
the melted butter, using a brush to apply it even- 

ly- 

189 

ALMOND CAKE 
(Bocca di dama) 

Granulated sugar, nine ounces, 
Very fine Hungarian flour, five ounces, 
129 



Sweet almonds with some bitter ones, two 
ounces, 

Six whole eggs and three egg yolks, 

Taste of lemon peel. 

After skinning the almonds in warm water and 
drying them well, grind or better pound them well 
together with a tablespoonful of sugar and mix 
well with the flour. Put the rest of the sugar in 
a deep dish with the egg yolks and the grated le- 
mon peel (just a taste) and stir with a ladle for 
a quarter of an hour. In another dish beat the 
six whites of egg and when they have become 
quite thick mix them with other ingredients stir- 
ring slowly everything together. 

To bake place the mixture in a baking-tin grea- 
sed evenly with butter and sprinkled with pow- 
dered sugar and flour. 

190 

CORN MEAL CAKES 
(Pasta di farina gialla) 

Corn meal, seven and a half ounces, 
Wheat flour, five and a half ounces, 
Granulated sugar, five and a half ounces, 
Butter, three and a half ounces, 
Lard, two ounces, 
A pinch of anise seed, 
One egg. 

Mix together the corn meal, the flour and the 
anis seed and knead with the butter, the lard and 

130 



the egg that quantity that you can, forming a 
loaf that you will put aside. What remains is to 
be kneaded with water forming another loaf. 
Then mix the two loaves and knead a little, not 
much because the dough must remain soft. Flat- 
ten with the rolling pin until it becomes one quar- 
ter of an inch thick, sprinkle with flour, and cut 
in different sizes and shapes with thin stamps. 

Grease a baking tin with lard, sprinkle, with 
flour, glaze with the egg, bake and dust with 
powdered sugar. 

191 

BISCUIT 
(Biscotto) 

Six eggs, 

Granulated sugar, nine ounces, 

Flour, four ounces, 

Potato meal, two ounces, 

Taste of lemon peel. 

Stir for at least half an hour the yolks of the 
eggs with the sugar and a tablespoonful only of 
the flour and meal, using a ladle. Beat the whites 
of the eggs until they are quite firm, mix slowly 
with the first mixture and when they are well in- 
corporated pour over from a sieve the flour and 
the potato meal, previously dried in the sun or 
on the fire. 

Bake in a tin where the mixture comes about 
one inch and a half thick, previously greasing the 

131 



tin with cold butter and sprinkle with powdered 
sugar mixed with flour. 

In these cakes with beaten whites the following 
method can also be followed: mix and stir first 
the yolks with the sugar, then put the flour then, 
after a good kneading, beat the whites until they 
are firm, pour two tablespoonfuls to soften the 
mixture, then the rest little by little. 

192 
CAKE MADELEINE 

(Pasta Maddalena) 

Sugar, four and a half ounces, 

Flour, three ounces, 

Butter, one ounce, 

Egg-yolks, four, 

Whites of eggs, three, 

A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda, 

A taste of lemon peel. 

First mix and stir the yolks with the sugar and 
when they have become whitish, add the flour 
and stir for fifteen minutes more. Mix with the 
butter, melting or softening it fine if it is hard and 
finally add the whites when they are well beaten. 
The flour must be previously dried in the aun or 
on the fire. 

This cake may be given different shapes, but 
keep it always thin and in little volume. It can be 
put in little molds greased with butter and sprink- 
led with flour, or else in a baking tin, keeping it 

132 



not more than half an inch thick, and cutting it 
after baking in the shape of diamonds and dusting 
with powdered sugar. 

193 

ALMOND CRISP-TART 
(Croccante) 

Sweet almonds, four and a half ounces. 

Granulated sugar, three and a half ounces. 

Skin the almonds, divide the two parts and cut 
each part into small pieces. Put these almonds so 
cut at the fire and dry them until they take a 
yellowish color, but do not toast. Meanwhile put 
the sugar on the fire in a saucepan and, when it 
is perfectly melted, pour the almonds hot and 
already sligthly browned. Now lower the fire and 
be careful not to allow the compound to be over- 
done. The precise point is known when the mix- 
ture acquires a cinnamon color. Then pour little 
by little in a cold mold, previously greased with 
butter or oil. Press with a lemon against the walls 
of the mold, making the mixture as thin as pos- 
sible. Remove from the mold when perfectly 
cooled and, if it is difficult to do so, dip the mold 
in boiling water. 

The almonds can also be dried in the sun and 
chopped fine, adding a small piece of butter 
when they are in the sugar. 



133 



194 

WAFER BISCUITS 
(Cialdoni) 

Put in a kettle: 

Flour, three ounces. 

Brown sugar, one ounce. 

Lard virgin, half an ounce. 

Cold water, seven tablespoonfuls. 

First dilute the flour and the sugar in the 
water, then add the lard. 

Put on the fire the iron for waffles or better an 
appropriated iron for flattened wafers. When it is 
quite hot open it and place each time half a table- 
spoonful of the paste. Close the iron and press 
well. Pass over the fire on both sides, trim all 
around with a knife and open the iron when you 
see that the wafer is browned. Then detach it 
from one side of the iron and hot as it is roll it 
on the iron itself or on a napkin using a little 
stick. This operation must be made with great 
rapidity because if the wafer gets cold, it cannot 
be rolled. 

Should the wafers remain attached to the iron, 
grease it from time to time, and if they are not 
firm enough, add a little flour. 

These wafer-biscuits are generally served with 
whipped cream. 



134 



195 

QUINCE CAKE 

(Cotognata) 

The ingredients are about six pounds of quin- 
ces and four pounds of granulated sugar. 

Put on the fire the apples covered with water, 
and when they begin to crack remove them, skin 
and scrape to put together all the pulp. Rub the 
latter through a sieve. Put back the pulp on the 
fire with the sugar and stir continually in order 
that it may not attack to the bottom of the kettle. 
It will be enough to boil for seven or eight mi- 
nutes and remove when it begins to form pieces 
when lifted with the ladle. 

Now in order to prepare the quince-cake spread 
it on a board to the thickness of about a silver 
dollar and dry it in the sun covered with cheese 
cloth to keep away the flies. When it is dry cut 
it in the form of chocolate tablets and remove 
each piece from the board passing the blade of a 
knife underneath. 

If it is wished to make it crisp, melt about 
three and a half pounds of granulated sugar with 
two tablespoonfuls of water and when the sugar 
has boiled enough to "make the thread" smear 
every one of the little quince cakes with it. If 
the sugar becomes too hard during the operation 
put it back on the fire with a little water and 
make it boil again. When the sugar is dry on one 
side and on the edge, smear the other side. 

135 



196 

PORTUGUESE CAKE 
(Focaccia alia Portoghese) 

Sweet almonds, five ounces. 

Granulated sugar, five ounces. 

Potato meal, one and a half ounce. 

Three eggs. 

One big orange or two small. 

First mix the yolks of the eggs with the sugar, 
then add the flour, then the almonds skinned and 
chopped fine, then the orange juice (through a 
colander) then a taste of orange peel. Finally add 
to the mixture the whites of the eggs well beaten. 
Put in a paper mold greased evenly with butter, 
with a thickness of about an inch and bake in a 
very moderately hot oven. After baked, cover 
with a white glaze or frost, made with powdered 
sugar, lemon juice and the white of eggs. 

197 

MACAROONS 

(Amaretti) 

I 

Granulated sugar, nine ounces. 

Sweet almonds, three and a half ounces. 

Bitter almonds, half of the above quantity. 

Whites of egg, two. 

Skin and dry the almonds, then chop them 
very fine. Mix the sugar and the whites of egg 
and stir for about half an hour, then add the al- 

136 



monds to form a rather hard paste. Of this make 
little balls, as large as a small walnut. If the paste 
is too soft add a little butter, if too hard add a 
little white of egg, this time beaten. Were it 
desired to give the macaroons a brownish color, 
mix with the paste a little burnt sugar. 

As you form the little ball, that you will flat- 
ten to the thickness of one third of an inch, put 
them over wafers or on pieces of paper or in a 
baking tin greased with butter and sprinkled with 
half flour and half powdered sugar. Dispose 
them at a certain distance from one another as 
they will enlarge and swell, remaining empty 
inside. 

Bake in an oven moderately hot. 

II 

Powdered sugar, ten and a half ounces. 

Sweet almonds, three ounces. 

Bitter almonds, one ounce. 

Two whites of egg. 

Skin the almonds and dry them in the sun or 
on the fire, then chop and grind very fine with 
one white of egg poured in various times. When 
this is done, put half of the sugar, stirring and 
kneading with your hand. Then pour everything 
in a large bowl and, always mixing, add half of 
the other white of egg, then the other half of the 
sugar and finally the other half of the white. 

In this way an homogenous mixture will be 
obtained of the right firmness. Shake into a kind 

137 



of a stick and cut it in rounds all equal, one third 
of an inch thick. Take them up one by one with 
moistened fingers and make little balls as large 
as a walnut. Flatten them to the thickness of a 
third of an inch and for the rest proceed as said 
above, but dust with powdered sugar before 
putting in a hot oven. 

With this dose about thirty macarons can be 
obtained. 

198 
FARINA CAKES 

(Pasticcini di semolino) 

Farina, six and a half ounces. 

Sugar, three and a half ounces. 

Pine-seeds, two ounces. 

Butter, a small piece. 

Milk, one quart. 

Four eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

Taste of lemon peel. 

Cook the farina in the milk and when it begins 
to thicken pour the pine-seeds, previously chop- 
ped fine and pounded with the sugar, then the 
butter and the rest, less the eggs which must be 
put in last when the mixture had completely 
cooled. Then place the whole well mixed in little 
molds, greased evenly with butter and sprinkled 
with bread crumbs ground fine, and bake. 



X38 



199 
RICE TART 

(Torta di riso) 

Milk, one quart. 

Rice, seven ounces. 

Sugar, five and a half ounces. 

Sweet almonds with four bitter ones, three and 

a half ounces. 

Candied cedar (angelica), one ounce. 
Three whole eggs. 
Five egg-yolks. 
Taste of lemon peel. 
A pinch of salt. 

Skin the almonds and grind or pound them 
with two tablespoonfuls of the sugar. 

Cut the candied cedar in very small cubes. 
Cook the rice in the milk until it is quite firm, 
put in all the ingredients except the eggs, which 
are added when the mixture is cold. Put the entire 
mixture in a baking tin greased with butter and 
sprinkled with bread crumbs ground fine, harden 
in the oven and after 24 hours cut the tart into 
diamonds. When serving dust with powdered 
sugar. 

200 

FARINA TART 
(Torta di semolino) 
Milk, one quart. 

Farina finely ground, four and a half ounces. 
Sugar, four and a half ounces. 

139 



Sweet almond.s with three bitter, three and a 
half ounces. 

Butter, a small piece. 

Four eggs. 

Taste of lemon peel. 

A pinch of salt. 

Skin the almonds in warm water and ground 
or pound very fine with all the sugar, to be mixed 
one tablespoonful at a time. 

Cook the farina in the milk and before remov- 
ing from the fire add the butter and the almonds, 
which will dissolve easily, being mixed with the 
sugar. Then put the pinch of salt and wait until 
it becomes lukewarm to add the eggs that are to 
be beaten whole previously. Pour the mixture in 
a baking tin greased evenly with butter, sprink- 
led with bread crumbs and of such a size that the 
tart has the thickness of an inch or less. Put it in 
the oven, remove from the mold when cold and 
serve whole or cut into sections. 

201 

PUDDING OF RICE MEAL 
(Budino di farina di riso) 

Milk, one quart. 

Rice meal, seven ounces. 

Sugar, four and a half ounces. 

Six eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

Taste of vanilla. 

140 



First dissolve the rice meal in half a pint of the 
milk when cold, and pour it in the rest of the 
milk when it is boiling. This is done to prevent 
the formation of lumps. When the meal is cooked 
add the sugar, the butter and the salt. Remove 
from the fire and when it is lukewarm mix the 
eggs (beaten) and the taste of vanilla. Then bake 
the pudding like all the others and serve warm. 

202 

BREAD PUDDING 
(Budino di pane) 

Soft bread crumb, five ounces. 

Butter, three and a half ounces. 

Four eggs. 

Taste of lemon peel. 

A pinch of salt. 

Cut the bread crumb into pieces and soak in 
cold milk. Then rub though a sieve. Melt the 
butter in a double boiler (in a vessel immersed 
in boiling water) and mix with the eggs until 
butter and eggs are incorporated to each other. 
Add the bread crumb and the sugar and mix 
well. Pour the mixture in a mold greased with 
butter and sprinkled with bread crumb ground 
fine and bake like other puddings. 

203 

POTATO PUDDING 
(Budino di patate) 

Potatoes, big and mealy, one and a half Ib. 
141 



Sugar, five and a half ounces. 

Butter, one and a half ounces. 

Flour, a tablespoonful. 

Milk, half a pint. 

Six eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

Paste of cinnamon or lemon peel. 

Boil or steam the potatoes, skin and rub 
through a sieve. Place them back again on the 
fire with the butter, the flour and the milk, all 
poured little by little, stirring well with the ladle, 
then add the sugar, the salt and the cinnamon 
or lemon peel (just a taste) and mix everything 
together well. Remove from the fire and, when 
the mixture is lukewarm or cold add the eggs, 
first the yolks, then the whites beaten. 

Bake like all other puddings and serve hot. 

204 

LEMON PUDDING 

(Budino di limone) 

One big lemon. 

Sugar, six ounces. 

Sweet almonds with 3 bitter ones, six ounces. 

Six eggs. 

Cook the lemon in water, for which two hours 
will be enough. Remove dry and rub through a 
sieve. Before rubbing, however, taste it, because 
if it has a bitter taste it must be kept in cold water 
until it has lost that unpleasant taste. Add the 

142 



sugar, the almonds skinned and ground very fine 
and the six yolks of the eggs. Beat the whites of 
the eggs and add them to the mixture that will 
then be put in a mold and baked like all other 
puddings. 

205 

PUDDING OF ROASTED ALMONDS 
(Budino di mandorle tostate) 

Milk, one quart. 

Sugar, three and a half ounces. 

Sweet almonds, two ounces. 

Lady-finger biscuits, two ounces. 

Three eggs. 

First prepare the almonds, that is to say skin 
them in warm water and toast them on the fire 
over a plate of iron or a stone, then grind very 
fine. Boil the sugar and the lady-fingers, broken 
in little pieces in the milk, mixing well. After 
half an hour of boiling, keeping always stirred, 
rub the mixture through a sieve. Then add the 
toasted and ground almonds. When it is cold add 
the beaten eggs, pour it in a smooth mold, whose 
bottom will be covered with a film of liquified 
sugar and cook in a double boiler, that is to say 
put the mold well closed in a kettle full of boiling 
water. 

When cooked let it cool and place in ice-box 
before serving. 



143 



206 
CRISP CAKE IN DOUBLE BOILER 

(Cr ocean te a bagno maria) 

Sugar, five and a half ounces. 

Sweet almonds, three ounces. 

Egg-yolks, five. 

Milk, one pint. 

Skin the almonds and chop them in little pieces 
about as big as a grain of wheat. Put on the fire 
two thirds of the sugar and when it is all melted 
pour the almonds and stir continually with the 
ladle until they have taken the color of cinna- 
mon. Then put them in a tin greased with butter 
and when they are cold, pound them very fine 
with the remaining third of sugar. 

Add the yolks and then the milk, mix well and 
pour the mixture in a mold with a hole in the 
middle and greased evenly with butter. Place the 
mold in a double boiler so that it will be cooked 
by steam. 

206 

STUFFED PEACHES 
(Pesche ripiene) 

Six big peaches not very ripe. 

Four or five lady-finger biscuits. 

Granulated sugar, three ounces. 

Two ounces sweet almonds with three peach 

kernels. 
Candied fruit (angelica) half an ounce. 

144 



Cut the peaches in two parts, remove the 
stones and enlarge somewhat the cavity where 
they were with the point of a knife. Mix the 
peach pulp that you extract with the almonds, 
already skinned, and grind the pulp and almonds 
very fine together with two ounces of the sugar. 
To this mixture add the lady-fingers crumbed 
and the candied fruits. Cut in very small cubes. 
This will be the stuffing with which you will fill 
the cavities of the twelve halves of peach. These 
you will place in a row in a baking tin, with the 
stuffing above. Add the remaining ounce of su- 
gar and bake in oven with a moderate fire. 

207 

MILK GNOCCHI 
(Gnocchi di latte) 

One quart of milk. 

Sugar, nine ounces. 

Starch in powder, four ounces. 

Eight yolks of eggs. 

A taste of vanilla. 

Mix everything together as you would do for 
a cream and put on the fire in a saucepan, conti- 
nually stirring with a ladle. When the mixture 
has become hard keep it a few moments more on 
the fire and then pour it in a plate to make it 
about half an inch thick and cut it into diamonds 
when it is cold. Put these diamonds one over the 
other with symmetry in a baking tin or in a fire- 

145 



proof glass plate, with some little pieces of butter 
in between and brown them a little in the oven. 
Serve hot. 

208 

SABAYON 

(Zabaione) 

Yolks of three eggs. 

Granulated sugar, two ounces. 

Marsala or sherry wine, five tablespoonfuls. 

A dash of cinnamon. 

First stir with the ladle the yolks and the su- 
gar until they become almost white, then add the 
wine. When ready to serve, place the saucepan 
in another one containing hot water and beat 
until the sugar is melted and the egg begins to 
thicken. 

SYRUPS 
(Sciroppi) 

The syrups of acidulated fruits, diluted with 
ice water are refreshing and pleasant beverages, 
greatly appreciated during the summer months. 
It is well, however, not to drink them until the 
digestion is completed, because they may disturb 
it, on account of the sugar that they contain. 

209 
RED CURRANT OR GOOSEBERRY SYRUP 

(Sciroppo di ribes) 

Remove the stems from the bunches of goose- 
berry and place them in an earthen vase, to be 

146 



kept in a cool place. When it has begun to fer- 
ment (which may happen after three or four 
days) sink the surface film and stir with a ladle 
twice a day, continuing this operation until it 
has stopped raising. Then put in a cheese cloth, 
letting the juice come out through pressing with 
the hands or in a machine. Pass the juice through 
a filter, two or three times if necessary, until you 
obtain a limpid liquid. Then put it on the fire 
and when it begins to boil pour in it granulated 
sugar and citric acid in the following propor- 
tions : 

Liquid, six pounds. 

Sugar, eight pounds. 

Citric acid, one ounce. 

That is to say for each three parts of the liquid, 
add four parts of sugar, and one ounce of citric 
acid for eight pounds of sugar mixed with six 
pounds of liquid. 

Stir continually with the ladle so that the su- 
gar does not stick to the bottom, taste it to add 
some more citric acid if you judge it necessary, 
then let it cool and place in bottles to be sealed. 

When a beverage is to be prepared pour in a 
tumbler less than half an inch of syrup for a 
tumblerful of ice water. 



147 



210 

RASPBERRY SYRUP 
(Sciroppo di lam pone) 

This is prepared like the other explained above 
but, since this fruit contains less gluten than the 
gooseberry the period of fermentation will be 
briefer. The large quantity of sugar used in these 
syrups is necessary for their conservation and the 
citric acid is used to correct the excessive sweet- 
ness. 

211 

LEMON SYRUP 
(Sciroppo di limone) 

Three big lemons. 

One and a half pound of sugar. 

A tumbler of water. 

Skin the lemons, removing the internal pulp 
without squeezing it and taking off all seeds. 

Put the water on the fire with the skin of one 
of the lemons cut in a thin ribbon like strip with 
a small knife. When the water is near boiling 
put in the sugar then remove the lemon skin and 
immerse the pulp of the three lemons. Boil until 
the syrup is condensed and cooked right, which 
is known by the pearls that it makes boiling and 
the color of white wine that is acquires. Preserve 
in a bottle, and when needed, dilute in a tumbler 
of ice water. A small quantity will make a de- 
lightful beverage. 

148 



212 
HARD BLACK-BERRY SYRUP 

(Sciroppo di amarena) 

Use hard but ripe black berries. They must be 
of the sour kind but, as said, they must not be 
unripe. Remove the stems and put the berries into 
a vase with a good piece of whole cinnamon. 
The fermentation will happen after 48 hours and 
as soon as the berries begin to rise, stir them 
from time to time. Then press them to extract 
the juice, with a pressing machine if you have 
one, or with your hands, squeezing them a few 
at a time in cheese cloth. When the liquid has 
rested for a while, filter it until it becomes quite 
clear. When it has been depurated, put it on the 
fire in the following proportion and with the 
piece of cinnamon that was already immersed in 
the cherries: Twelve pounds of liquid to sixteen 
pounds of sugar and two ounces of citric acid, 
or three parts of liquid to four of sugar and the 
citric acid as in the above proportion. 

Before putting in the sugar and the citric acid 
wait until the liquid is quite hot, just before boil- 
ing. Then stir continually. The boiling must be 
brief, four or five minutes are sufficient to incor- 
porate the sugar in the liquid. 

When removing the syrup from the fire, put 
it in an earthen vase and bottle when quite cold. 
Cork the bottles well and keep in a cool place. 

149 



213 
ORGEAT 

(Orzata) 

Sweet almonds with 1 or 12 bitter ones, seven 
ounces. 

Water, one and half pounds. 

Granulated sugar, two pounds. 

Skin the almonds and grind them very fine, 
or better pound them in a mortar, moistening 
from time to time with orange flower water, of 
which you will use about two tablespoonfuls. 

When the almonds have been reduced to a 
paste, dissolve the latter in one third of the water 
and filter the juice through a cheese cloth, squeez- 
ing hard. Put the paste, back in the grinder or in 
the mortar, grind or pound again, then filter again 
with another third of the water. Repeat the same 
operation for a third time, then put on the fire 
the liquid so obtained and just before boiling 
put the sugar, mix, stir and boil for about twenty 
minutes. Let it cool, then bottle and keep in a 
cool place. The orgeat does not ferment and the 
thick liquid may be diluted in water, half an inch 
for a whole tumbler of iced water. 



150 



PRESERVES 

214 
APRICOT MARMALADE 

(Conserva di albicocche) 

Use good and ripe apricots. It is a mistake to 
believe that jam or marmalade can be obtained 
with any kind of fruit. Take off the stones, put 
them on the fire without water and while they 
boil, stir with a ladle to reduce them to pulp. 
When they have boiled for about half an hour, 
rub them through a sieve to separate the pulp of 
the fruit from the skins that are to be thrown 
away, then put them back on the fire with gra- 
nulated sugar in the proportion of eight tenths, 
that is to say eight pounds of sugar for ten 
pounds of apricot pulp. Stir often with the ladle 
until the mixture acquires the firmness of mar- 
malade, which will be known by putting from 
time to time a teaspoonful in a plate and seeing 
that it flows slowly. 

When ready, remove from the fire, let it cool, 
and then put in vases well covered and with a 
film of paraffine or tissue paper dipped in alco- 
hol, so that the air may not pass in. 

215 

PRESERVE OF QUINCE 
(Conserva di cotogne soda) 

The ingredients are quinces, peeled and with 
the core removed, and granulated sugar, in the 

151 



proportion of eight tenths of quinces to five 
tenths of sugar, or a little more than one and a 
half quinces for one part of sugar. 

Dissolve the sugar on the fire with half a glass 
of water, boil a little, then remove from the fire 
and put aside. 

Cut the quinces peeled and coreless in very 
thin slices and put them on the fire with a glass 
of water, supposing the quantity to be about two 
pounds. Keep covered, but stir once in a while 
with the ladle, trying to break the slices and re- 
duce them to a paste. When the quinces are 
made tender through cooking, pour in the thick 
syrup of sugar already prepared, mix and stir 
and let the mixture boil with the cover removed 
until the preserve is ready, which will be known 
when it begins to fall like shreds when taken up 
with the ladle. 

Let it cool and put in well covered jars. 

ICES 
(Gelati) 

Although it is in America that there s a 
greater consumption of ice cream, it is in Italy 
that it was first made, and in various European 
capitals it is the Italian gelatiere who prepares 
the frozen delicacy. A few Italian recipes of gelati 
will then be acceptable, we believe, as a con- 
clusion to this little work. 

152 



216 

BISCUIT 
(Pezzo in gelo) 

Make a cream with : 

Water, five ounces. 

Sugar, two ounces. 

The yolks of four eggs. 

A taste of vanilla. 

Put it on the fire stirring continually and 
when it begins to stick to the ladle remove from 
the fire and whip to a stiff froth. Then mix about 
five ounces of ordinary whipped cream, put in 
a mold and pack in salt and ice. 

Keep in ice for about three hours. 

This dose will be sufficient for seven or eight 
persons. 

217 

LEMON ICE 
(Gelato di limone) 

Granulated sugar, 24 Ib. 

Water, a pint. 

Lemons, three (good sized). 

Boil the sugar in the water, with some little 
pieces of lemon peel, for about ten minutes, in 
an uncovered kettle. When this syrup is cold, 
squeeze the lemons one at the time, tasting the 
mixture to regulate the degree of acidity. Then 
strain and put in the freezer packed with salt 
and ice. 

153 



218 

STRAWBERRY ICE 
(Gelato di fragola) 

Ripe strawberries, 24 Ib. 

Granulated sugar, 24 Ib. 

Water, one pint. 

A big lemon. 

An orange. 

Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes in 
an uncovered kettle. Rub through a sieve the 
strawberries and the juice of the lemon and the 
orange : add the syrup after straining, mix every- 
thing and pour the mixture in the freezer. 

219 

ORANGE ICE 
(Gelato di aranci) 

Four big oranges. 
-One lemon. 

One pint of water. 

Sugar, % Ib. 

Squeeze the oranges and the lemon and strain 
the juice. 

Boil the sugar in the water for ten minutes, 
put in the juice when cold, strain again and put 
in the freezer. 



154 



220 

PISTACHE ICE CREAM 
(Gelato di pistacchi) 

Milk, one quart. 

Sugar, six ounces. 

Pistaches, two ounces. 

Skin the pistaches in warm water and grind 
them very fine with a tablespoonful of the sugar, 
then put in a saucepan with the yolks and the 
sugar, mixing everything together. Add the milk 
and put the mixture on the fire stirring with the 
ladle and when it is condensed like cream, let it 
cool and put in the freezer. 

221 
TUTTI FRUTTI 

To make this ice a special ice cream mold is 
necessary, or a tin receptacle that can be closed 
hermetically. 

Take several varieties of fruits of the season, 
ripe and of good quality, that is to say, straw- 
berries, cherries, plums, apricots, a big peach, a 
good sized pear, a piece of good cantaloupe. Peel, 
skin and remove stones and cores of all these 
fruits. Then cut them into very thin slices, throw- 
ing away the cores and stones. 

When the fruit is prepared in this manner, 
weigh it, and sprinkle over one fifth of its 
weight of powdered sugar, squeezing also one 

155 



lemon. Mix everything and let the mixture rest 
for half an hour. 

Put a sheet of paper in the bottom of the mold 
that is to be filled with the fruit pressed together, 
close, and pack in salt and ice, keeping it for two 
hours or a little less. 

This is not the tutti f rutti ice cream as is known 
in America, but a macedoine of fruits, that 
comes very pleasant to the taste in the summer 
months. 



151 



INDEX 



NUMBERS REFER TO RECIPES 



African hen, 143 

Almond, cake, 189 

crisp cake, 193 .... 
" (roasted) pudding, 

205 

Anchovy sauce, 14 

Apricot marmelade, 214 . . . 
Artichockes, with butter, 31 

fried, 28 

in mold, 96 . . 

steamed, 29 . . 

stewed, 30 ... 

stuffed, 105 . . 

stuffed with 

meat, 106 . 

with sauce, 104 

Asparagus, 114 

Balsamella, sauce, 59 

Bean soup, 7 

Birds, 132 

Biscuit, 191 

Biscuit (ice), 216 

Biscuit, cripp, 183 

" soft, 184 

" sultan, 185 

wafer, 194 

Blackberry syrup, 212 

Bread soup, 3 

Breast of Veal stuffed, 80. . 
Brittle (see crisp cake) .... 

Broth, 1 

Brown stock, 13 

Cabbage, stuffed, 112 

Cake, almond, 189 

corn meal, 190 

crisp, 206 

Madeleine, 192 

Margherita, 186 

portugaise, 196 

quince, 195 

Cakes, farina, 198 

Caper Sauce, 57 

Cappelletti, soup, 2 

Cauliflower, in mold, 95 ... 



Page 

103 
129 
133 

143 
16 

151 
27 
25 
73 
26 
27 
78 

79 
78 
85 
46 
9 

95 

131 

153 

124 

125 

126 

134 

149 

Y 

62 

5 

15 

83 

129 

130 

144 

132 

127 

136 

135 

138 

45 

6 

72 



Page 

Cauliflower, with balsamel- 

la, 111 83 

Celery, au jus, 166 116 

dressing 103 77 

fried, 168 117 

puree, 169 117 

sauce for, 167 116 

with butter, 165 . 115 

Chicken alia cacciatora, 35. 30 
" boned and stuffed, 

40 33 

" breasts saute, 45 .. 37 

" fried, 34 29 

saute, 142 102 

stuffed, 139 100 

" stuffing, 64 51 

with ham, 141 ... 102 

with egg sauce, 44 37 

with sausages, 43 36 

with sherry, 42 .. 36 

with tomatoes, 41 35 
" with sauce piquan- 

te, 140 101 

Cod fish, boiled, 122, 123 . . 90-91 

" croquettes, 125 . . 91 

fried, 124 91 

Corn meal, cake, 190 130 

pie, 37 31 

" with sausages, 

36 30 

Crisp cake in double boiler, 

206 144 

Croquettes, fried, 67 53 

Curly tart, 188 129 

Currant, syrup, 209 146 

Cutlets, chopped meat, 74 .. 58 

" veal, 75 58 

stewed, 73 57 

" stuffed, 76, 138 : . 59-99 

Dog fish, fried, 126 92 

stewed, 127 92 

Duck, tame, 144 104 

" wild, 46 38 

Eels, stewed, 118 88 

" with peas, 119 88 



157 



INDEX, continued 



Eggs, scrambled, 181 

" with ham, 179 

" with onion sauce, 178 
" with tomato sauce, 180 

Egg-plants, fried, 100 

" in the oven, 102 
" stewed, 101 . . 

Farina, cakes, 198 

" tart, 200 

Pish, with bread crumbs, 116 
" cutlets, stewed, 116 

Fry, Roman, 68, 69 

Gnocchi, 4 

" milk, 207 

Hare, roast, 135 

" stewed, 51 

Ices, biscuits, 216 

lemon, 217 

orange, 219 

pistache, 220 

strawberry, 218 

tutti frutti, 221 

Kidney, broiled, 152 

fried, 153 

" saute, 71 .,. 

" sliced 151 

" with anchovy, 150. . 

" ome^t, 33 

Lamb, lej? of, 147 

omelet, 33 

" shoulder. 79 

" roast, 133 

" with peas, 78 

Lemon, ice, 217 

" pudding, 204 

" syrup, 211 

Lentils, soup, 9 

Liver, loaf, 89 

Macaroni, Napolitaine, 20 

fried with oil, 21 

au gratin, 19 ... 

a la Corinna, 18 

" with anchovy 

sauce, 17 .... 
" with butter and 

cheese, 15 .... 
" with tomato sau- 
ce or brown 

stock, 16 

Macaroons, 197 



Page 

123 

122 

122 

123 

75 

76 

76 

138 

139 

86 

86 

54-55 
7 

145 

97 

42 

153 

153 

154 

155 

154 

155 

108 

108 

5<> 

107 

107 

61 

ion 

29 

61 

96 

61 

153 

142 

148 

10 

68 

20 

21 

19 

18 

18 
17 



18 
136 



Page 

Madeleine cake, 192 132 

Mantona tart, 187 128 

Margherita cake, 186 127 

Marmelade, apricot, 214 . . . 151 

Meat, Genovese, 86 65 

" Omelet, 77 60 

" stuffing, 65 52 

Milk gnocchi, 207 145 

Minestrone, 9 11 

Mushrooms, dried, 99 74 

" fried, 97 73 

stewed, 98 ... 74 

Mussels, with egg sauce, 120 89 
with tomato sauce, 

121 89 

Mutton, cutlets, 84 54 

leg of, 72, 134 57-96 

Omelet, curled, 60 47 

lamb, 33 29 

veal kidney, 61 48 

Onions, stewed, 160 112 

stuffed, 159 112 

Orange, ice, 219 154 

Orgeat, syrup, 213 150 

Panata, 3 7 

Paste for frying, 63 50 

Pavese soup, 10 11 

Peaches, stuffed, 206 Bis . . 144 

Peas, with corned beef, 109 82 

with ham, 108 81 

" with onion sauce, 117 80 

Pigeon, surprise, 137 98 

broiled, 148 106 

(See Squabs) 

Pistache, ice, 220 

Polenta pie, 37 31 

" with sausages, 36, 

163 30-113 

Polpettone, 77 60 

Pork liver fried, 66 53 

" roast, 146 105 

Portuguese cake, 196 136 

Pot-roast, 130 94 

with garlic, 131 . 95 

larded, 136 98 

Potato pudding, 203 141 

Preserve, quince, 215 151 



158 



INDEX, continued 



Pudding, bread, 202 

Genovese, 88 .... 
Lazelnuts, 182 . . . 

lemon, 204 

potato, 203 

rice meal, 201 .... 
roasted almonds, 

205 

Puff Paste, 62 

Quince, cake, 195 

preserve, 215 

Rabbit, stewed, 52 

Raspberry syrup, 210 

Ravioli, 10 

Rice, cakes, 27 

" meal pudding, 201 . . . 

" pancakes, 70 

" pudding with giblets, 

87 

" tart, 199 

" with saffron, 26 

Risotto Milanaise, 22 

" with chicken giblets, 

23 
" with lobster, 25 ... 

" with peas, 24 

" with saffron, 26 ... 

Roast-beef, 128 

Rolls, stuffed, 38 

Roman fry, 68, 69 

Sabayon, 208 

Salmi of game, 50 

Sauce, anchovy, 13 

" balsamella, 59 

" brown stock, 12 

" caper, 57 

for broiled fish, 56 . 

" green, 53 

" Genovese, 58 

" tomato, 12 

" white, 54 

" yellow, 55 

Sausages with corn meal, 163 
with onions, 164 . 

Soup, bean, 7 

" bread, 7 

" cappelletti, 2 

" lentils, 8 

" Pavese, 11 

" Queen, 6 



Page p ag e 

141 Soup stock, 1 5 

67 " vegetables, 5 8 

124 Spaghetti, 11-15 13-17 

(see Macaroni) 

141 Spinach, side-dish, 113 84 

140 Squabs, ragout, 48 39 

stewed, 47 39 

143 " timbale, 49 40 

(See Pigeons) 

135 Squash, fried, 32 28 

151 " stuffed, 91 69 

42 Steak in the saucepan, 149 106 
148 Stewed cutlets, 73 57 

11 Strauberry, ice, 218 154 

25 String beans in mold, 94 ... 71 

140 saute, 92 70 

55 with egg sau- 
ce, 93 71 

66 Stufato, 170 117 

139 French, 173 119 

24 " Milanaise, 172 ... 118 

22 " Southern, 171 118 

Stuffing, chicken, 64 51 

22 " meat, 65 52 

23 Sugo di carne, 13 15 

23 Sweet-breads, 157 110 

24 Syrup, hard blackberry, 212 149 

93 ' lemon, 211 148 

32 ' orgeat, 213 150 

54-55 ' raspberry, 210 148 

146 ' red currant, 209 146 

41 Tart, curly, 188 129 

15 ' farina, 200 139 

46 ' Mantona, 187 128 

14 ' rice, 199 139 

45 Tenderloin, with Marsala, 85 65 

45 " with spices, 158 111 

43 Tomato sauce, 12 14 

46 " stuffed, 110 82 

14 Tongue, boiled, 154 108 

43 stewed, 156 109 

44 " with olives, 155 ... 109 

113 Tripe with gravy, 82 63 

114 Trout, Alpine, 174 120 

9 " fried, 176 121 

9 " Lombard, 175 121 

6 " with anchovies, 177 121 

10 Turkey, 145 104 

12 Tutti frutti, ice, 221 155 

9 Veal, breast, 80 62 

159 



INDEX, continued 



Page 

Veal cutlets, 75 68 

" kidney with anchovy, 

150 107 

" liver, 161 113 

" fried, 162 113 

" in gravy, 83 63 

" kidney sliced, 151 ... 107 

Veal, roast, 129 94 

" stewed, 39 32 



Veal with gravy, 81 . . 

" with tunny, 90 . . 

Vegetable chowder, 10 



soup, 7 

Wafer biscuits, 194 

Whiting with anchovy sau- 
ce, 117 

Zabaione, 208 

Zucchine, 32 



Page 
62 

68 

11 

8 

134 

87 

146 

28 




160 



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